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ilLLUSTRATOi 







GEORGE C. MASON. 



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EMCRAYINCS BY 



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Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1854, by 

GEORGE C. MASON, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States 
for the Southern District of New York. 



i. H. JOCELYN, ELECTROTYPBR, MUDGE AND SON, PRINTEES 

5S & 60 FuUoa St. 34 School St., Bostov. 



/* 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 
Newport a Fashionable Watering Place 



CHAPTER II. 
Early History of Newport . ; 10 

CHAPTER III. 

Newport Harbor. Fort Adams. Cattle Hill. Erenton's 

Reef. Grave's Point. Lily Pond Spouting Rock. 17 

CHAPTER IV. 

City Hall. Washington Square. Com. Perry's House. 
Zion Church. Central Baptist Church. Dr. Stiles. 
Newport Artillery. Vernon Mansion House. Hon. 
Wm. Vernon. Landing of Washington and recep- 
tion by Rochambeau. Illumination of the town . SiJ 

CHAPTER V. 

State House and Parade. Stuart's Picture of Washington. 

Judge Lightfoot -iS 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER VI. 



Church Street. Residence of Rev. James Honyman. Jas. 
Honyman, Esq, Mrs. Cowley's Assembly Room. 
Ball given by the French Officers. Ball given by the 
citizens to Washington and Rochambeau. Ball giv- 
en to Washington. Trinity Church. Funeral of 
Chevalier De Ternay. Rectors of Trinity Church. 
Destruction of the Altar Piece after the Evacuation. 
Bishop Berkeley. Masonic Hall. Wm. E. Chan- 
ning, Esq 42 

CHAPTER VII. 

Easton's Beach. Bathing. Fishermen Drawing their 
Nets. Purgatory. Sachuest Point. Capture of the 
Pigot by Major Talbot. Tautog and Bass Fishing. 49 

CHAPTER VIII. 
Old Stone Mill .69 

CHAPTER IX. 
Redwood Library. Jewish Cemetery. Jewish Synagogue. 61 

CHAPTER X. 

South Touro Street. Buildings recently erected. Boat 

House Landing. Coggeshall's L-edge. Spouting Cave. 65 

CHAPTER XL 
The Glen 67 

CHAPTER XII. 

Excursion over the Bay Fort Adams. Rose Island. 

The Dumplings 70 

CHAPTER XIII. 
Church of the Holy Cross. Capture of Gen. Prescott. 



CONTENTS. 5 

Redwood House. Butt's Hill. Lawton's Valley. R. 

I. Coal Mines 74 

CHAPTER XIV. 
Steamboats running to and from Newport 79 

CHAPTER XV. 

The Point. Washington Street. Dr. Wm. Hunter, Hon. 
Wm. Hunter. Death of Chevalier De Ternay. Fort 
Greene 80 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Tammany Hill. Tammany Hill Institute. Malbone's 

Garden. Smilert. AUston. Stuart. Art in America. 83 

CHAPTER XVII. 

The Newport Mercury. James Franklin. Brenton Town 

House. Judge Halliburton 88 

CHAPTER XVni. 

A ride to Green End, Honyman's Hill, Whitehall, and 

over the Beaches 91 

CHAPTER XIX 
Liberty Tree. Henry Marchant, Esq. Hon. Wm Ellery. 101 

CHAPTER XX. 

First Baptist Church, Second Baptist. Central Baptist, 
Methodist. Unitarian. Episcopal Mission. Friends. 
Roman Catholic. Congregational. Union Colored. 106 



CHAPTER I. 



NEWPORT A FASHIONABLE WATLKINO PLACE. 




HERE is nothing 
surprising in the fact 
that Newport has be- 
come a' Fashionable 
Watering place;' the 
wonder is, that so 
many years were re- 
quired to make its 
many attractions 
'iU) known to those who 
habitually leave the 
'Kfi'^;M^^***^>'^'^^~' crowded cities, on 

the approach of summer's heat, in search of some 
favored spot where they may enjoy a cool and in- 
vigorating air, bathe on a beach washed by the 
ocean waves, ramble over verdant hills and vales and 
pleasant fields, or pause to rest on some bold cliff 
that commands a view far seaward. 

The inhabitants of Newport do not fullyappreciate 
the charms of the island. They have always enjoyed 
the blessings by which they are surrounded ; they 
have ever breathed a healthy atmosphere, and are 
never oppressed by excessive heat, or forced to look 
upon pastures burnt to a crisp by an August sun ; they 
do not realize the full meaning of exhaustion and 



8 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

lassitude in the dog days ; and can scarcely estimate 
the daily reports at that trying season, from less favor- 
ed spots, of suffering and mortality. But when they 
chance to roam, their eyes are opened to the blessings 
at home, and, if forced to remain long absent, the 
dream of their life is to return and here rest in their 
declining days. There is no trait in the charac- 
ter of Rhode Islanders more marked than that of 
attachment to their native soil. On their return, after 
a long sojourn, they visit every spot made familiar in 
early life, and consider every moment so spent as a 
fitting reward for years of toil in a strange land. 

The natural attractions of Newport are great, but 
it does not depend on these alone to engage the atten- 
tion of strangers who would while away a few summer 
days by the sea shore. On every hand are beautiful 
country seats of every known and unknown order of ar- 
chitecture ; numerous hotels, and all well conducted ; 
libraries of well stored and well selected books, easy 
of access; society composed of the leading men of 
the country, in all the walks of life ; stately matrons, 
and dashing belles — all combine their attractions, and 
serve to make Newport the most desirable and popular 
of summer resorts. 

In localities where nature has done but little, fashion 
may have the sway for a time. Crowds may flock to 
a point that boasts of no charm but its ocean view, 
or to the hot and arid sands bordering some inland 
water ; but the excitement cannot long be sustained. 
At Newport it is altogether the reverse. Here, those 
who come to pass a few weeks are soon charmed with 
the climate and scenery of the island ; a desire to 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 9 

build becomes irresistible, and the result is, a lot with 
a commanding view is purchased, a neat cottage 
erected, and the happy household only leave for their 
winter quarters when the north winds and the falling 
leaves proclaim the warm season at an end. 

Thousands now assemble at Newport every year ; 
and during their stay, one great source of pleasure is 
to visit the most inviting scenes, and the spots ren- 
dered uiteresting by their historical associations. To 
aid those who would dispense with the services of a 
guide, and wander alone by the sea shore and over 
the pleasant hill sides, this little work is designed. 
In preparing it, the writer's object has been simply to 
impart such information as would be likely to prove 
acceptable ; and to make it the more attractive, he 
has added a few historical reminiscences, presenting 
an occasional picture of life in colonial times, as 
contrasted well with the gay scenes witnessed here 
at the present day, when the season is at its hight. 



CHAPTER II 



EARLY HISTORY OF NEWPORT. 



IN 1638, Governor Coddington, having associated 
himself with seventeen others, purchased Aqiiid- 
neck — " Isle of Peace " — of the Indian sachems, in 
his own name as agent. The company immediately 
took possession of the island, and settled on its north- 
ern extremity, where they proposed establishing a 
colony. A town was regularly laid out, and called 
Pocasset — now known as Portsmouth. The colony 
prospered, and during the following summer search 
was made for a more favorable location, which resulted 
in the selection of the south-western extremity of the 
island, now known as Newport. The following 
spring a part of the colony moved to the new site, 
laid out the principal streets, and commenced the 
erection of houses. At a subsequent date, the island, 
by order of the General Court, was called the " Isle 
of Rhodes," or Rhode Island, on account of its great 
resemblance to the beautiful Isle of Rhodes in the 
Mediterranean. 

Rhode Island is situated in Narragansett Bay, in 
lat. 41 deg. 29 min., long. 71 deg. 20 min. It is 
fifteen miles in length, and in the vicinity of Newport 
about four in width, gradually diminishing toward the 
north until it terminates in a point. The shore line 
is eighty miles. 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 11 

Newport is beautifully situated on a hill sloping 
gently to the harbor on the west. It is laid out with 
some degree of regularity ; the principal streets run- 
ning north and south, and crossed at right angles. 
The ancient part of the city is compact ; that of recent 
date is open and tastefully arranged. The inner har- 
bor is formed by the Town on the east, the Neck on 
the south, terminating in Brenton's Point ; Goat Island 
on the west, with an opening to the north and also 
to the south-west. The outer harbor comprises that 
portion of Narragansett Bay lying between Rhode 
Island on the east and the island of Conanicut on the 
west, opening to the ocean on the south, and to the 
north running into Providence River. The entrance 
to the harbor is two miles in width, twenty -nine fath- 
oms in depth, and in only one instance lias it been 
closed by ice since the first settlement. The ap- 
proach to the harbor is so free from obstructions of 
every kind, that a stranger may enter in safety without 
the aid of a pilot. Vessels can enter and depart with 
any wind ; and the united fleets of the world could 
here find safe and commodious anchorage. 

Rhode Island is connected with the main on the 
east by a substantial stone bridge, which is owned by 
a company who realize a small dividend from the 
tolls. There is also a telegraph communicating be- 
tween Newport, New York, Boston and Providence, 
via Fall River. The distance from Newport to Prov- 
idence is thirty miles ; to Fall River eighteen, and 
from there to Boston, by railway, fifty-three ; to Point 
Judith fifteen ; to Block Island thirty ; and to New 
York one hundred and sixty-five miles. 



12 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

The public buildings of Newport are the State 
House, a well arranged and commodious building, 
situated at the head of the Parade ; the City Hall, at 
the corner of Thames Street and the Long Wharf ; 
the Redwood Library, one of the most classical build- 
ings in the country ; the Jewish Synagogue, three 
Baptist, one Congregational, one Unitarian, three 
Episcopal Churches, one Episcopal Mission, and two 
Friends' Meeting-houses. There are eight Hotels, 
four of which are only opened during the summer for 
the accommodation of the crowds who resort here 
during the season. There are also seven Banks, wnth 
an aggregate capital of $680,000, on which an annual 
dividend of six per cent, is usually paid. To these 
must be added a Bank for Savings. Its deposits, 
which are rapidly increasing, amount at the present 
time to $400,000. 

On the breaking out of the Revolution, great num- 
bers of the inhabitants left the Island ; and during the 
summer and fall of 1776, Newport remained in a dis- 
tressed condition, without commerce, without defense, 
except a few guns at Brenton's Point, and with a 
prostration of business of all kinds. The British fleet 
arrived, and the troops took possession of the town, 
and remained three years. During their stay New- 
port was under martial law. Before leaving, they 
destroyed four hundred and eighty buildings of various 
classes, burned the lighthouse at Beaver Tail, cut 
down all the ornamental and fruit trees, broke up 
nearly all the wharves, and the places of public wor- 
ship, with two exceptions, were used as riding schools 
and stables. The State House they turned into a 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 13 

hospital. The church bells, with one exception — a 
present from Queen Anne — the machinery from the 
distilleries, and the Town Records, were carried off 
to New York ; and when at length they evacuated 
the place, the wells were filled up, and as much prop- 
erty as possible destroyed, by order of the British 
commander. 

The British army quartered on the town numbered 
8,000 English and Hessians. They encamped in 
summer, but in winter forced themselves into the 
houses of the inhabitants. 

From 1778 to the time that the island was evacu- 
ated, contributions were constantly made by States, 
towns, parishes, religious societies, companies and 
individuals, for the benefit of the sufferers at Newport. 
The State granted one hundred and sixty cords of 
wood, then worth twenty silver dollars a cord, and 
jC 1,000 to the poor. Old houses were torn down and 
one ship broken up, for fuel. So great was the de- 
mand for food, that corn brought four silver dollars a 
bushel, and half that sum was demanded for the same 
quantity of potatoes. 

During the stay of the British there were always 
vessels of war in attendance, numbering, at times, as 
many as seventy men-of-war and transports ; and 
when the French fleet, under Count D'Estaing, ap- 
peared off the coast, the British destroyed many ships 
to prevent their falling into the hands of the French. 
The Lark, Orpheus, Juno, Ceberius, Kingfisher, Grand 
Turk and others were burned, two galleys were blown 
up, the Flora sunk, and fifteen large transports scat- 
tered and sunk in the outer harbor ; while the Falcon 
2 



14 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED 

sloop-of-war and thirty armed vessels were sunk in 
the inner harbor. 

The British evacuated in 1779. At that time the 
population of the Town was reduced from 12,000 to 
4,000. After the troops left, the Town was used foi 
cartels between New York and the New England 
States. Many of the inhabitants returned, but it waa 
generally the poorer class, which only increased the 
distress. Efforts were shortly made to restore the 
commerce, and a few privateers were sent out, which 
brought in many prizes ; but owing to the exposed 
situation of the place, and the long period it had been 
in the possession of the British, other towns, with 
fewer natural advantages, took the lead in commercial 
enterprise. 

We have no statistics to which we can refer for 
facts connected with the commerce of Newport ; the 
Town having been literally sacked by the British, and 
all the valuable documents destroyed or carried off. 
But there is yet data extant that must be taken as 
evidence of her early commercial relations, and the 
high position of her merchants, until they were ruined 
or scattered by the war. Probably on no spot in the 
colonies was there concentrated more individual opu- 
lence, learning and science, than in Newport. In 
architectural taste and costly structures, she was 
unsurpassed ; and was styled the emporium of fashion, 
refinement and taste. Her seamen were bold and 
hardy, and first carried the whaling business as far as 
the Falkland Islands. Her manufactures were highly 
esteemed throughout the country and the West Indies, 
and the remains of her extensive distilleries are still i 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 15 

visible in various parts of the Town. Of these distil- 
leries there were upwards of thirty, erected at great 
expense. To supply them with molasses, a fleet of 
vessels was constantly employed between Newport 
and the West Indies ; and at this time the seamen of 
the port numbered twenty-two hundred. 

The following facts in regard to the trade of New- 
port in her palmy days, 1764, are set forth in a protest 
against the Sugar Act. 

"Of the foreign vessels, one hundred and fifty are annually 
employed in the West India trade, which import into thi^ 
colony about fourteen thousand hogsheads of molasses, whereof 
a quantity, not less than twenty-five hundrcd hogsheads, is 
from English islands. It is this quantity of molasses which 
serves as an engine in the hands of the merchant to effect the 
great purpose of paying for British manufactures ; for a part 
of it is exported to the Massachusetts Bay, to New York and 
Pennsylvania, to pay for British goods, for provisions, and 
many articles which compose our West India cargoes ; and 
part to other colonies, southward of these last mentioned, for 
such commodities as serve for a remittance immediately to 
Europe, such as rice, naval stores, &c., or such as are necessary 
to enable us to carry on our commerce. The remainder, (^be- 
sides what is consumed by the inhabitants,) is distilled into 
rum, and exported to Africa." 

Dr. Waterhouse, in an article published in 1824, 
entitled " Medical Literature of Rhode Island," says 
of Newport, " It was the chosen resort of the rich and 
philosophic, from nearly all quarters of the world.' 
He then adds : 

" There were more complete chemical laboratories in Ehode 
Island, than were to be found anywhere in Massachusetts prior 
to fifteen years ago. If it be asked, what were they doing in 
Philadelphia at this time ? we answer, nothing, if we except 
Franklin's exhibition of electricity. There was then no con- 
siderable library, public or private except one owned by Wil- 
liam Logan, Esq., another wealthy and generous patron of 
literature amoug the Quakers — the Abraham Redwood of Penn- 



16 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

sylvania Is it asked, what were they doing in the medi<;al 
and philosophical line in Boston at this time 1 Pelting Dr. 
Boylston with stones as he passed the streets in the day, and break- 
\n^ his windows at night, for introducing inoculation for small pox. 
What were they doing at Cambridge between 1721 and 1754 1 — 
ask your grandfathers — and what were they doing in Ehode 
Island ] Reading the best collection of books to be found in 
New England, (Cambridge only excepted,) which gave to 
Newport a literary cast of character which it sustained until 
the Ii evolution ; that is, till their distinguished men were 
scattered." 

Up to the war of 1812, Newport dragged slowly 
along ; her commerce gradually improved, and her 
merchants, in a measure, regained lost ground. Of 
later years, the Island has become the resort of thou- 
sands during the summer, and it once more presents 
a gay and animated appearance. Hundreds of beau- 
tiful buildmgs have been erected during the past five 
years ; the taxable property has increased over a 
million of dollars ; and it is now esteemed a favor to 
obtain a fine site for a house at so much a foot, where 
a few seasons ago the same money would have pur- 
chased acres of the most desirable land. Some of 
the changes that have been effected in the appearance 
of Newport, we shall point out in the following pages. 



CHAPTER III 



NEWPORT HARBOR. FORT ADAMS. CASTLE HILL. URENTON 

REEF. GRAVES POINT. LILY POND. SPOUTING ROCK. 




F the many beautiful roads 
leading from Newport, we 
scarce know which to take for a ride ; but at a venture, 
will turn southward and drive into Brenton's Neck. 

Leaving the main road beyond the Coddington mill 
and just opposite the Gas Works, we enter on a road 
leading nearly west, cross a small stream that winds 
far up among the grassy slopes, and pass along a quiet 
beach ; the land gently rising on the left ; and on the 
right, the bay, harbor and city are spread out to view. 
On the hill above are the traces of an old redoubt, built 
during the last war with England, and called Fort 
Denham. In its day it was a small breastwork, cal- 
culated for a few guns to rake the inner harbor, and 
to keep up the communication between the town and 
2* 



18 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

Fort Adams, then a small work on the site of the 
present fort of the same name. 

A short distance beyond, the road gradually rises 
to the brow of the hill, where a fine view may be 
obtained ; and it is weU here to pause and gaze upon 
the scene. The few scattered sails, mirrored in the 
placid waters, will recall to mind the day when the 
commerce of Newport was second only to that of 
Boston ; and the forts on either hand incline one to 
picture the scenes here enacted in the struggle for 
Independence. Years before the " Boston Tea Par- 
ty," Newport resisted England's power. Where rises 
now the small white building on yonder crescent- 
shaped island, — once the burial place of pirates, — the 
ill-fated sloop " Liberty " was given to the flames by 
an insulted people. On these waters Percy and 
Clinton once reigned supreme. Here assembled the 
fleet of Lord Howe, and here D'Estaing went forth to 
engage his foe in mortal combat. Here the reckless 
and cruel Wallace terrified the unarmed inhabitants — 
threatening by day, burning and sacking by night. 
From this port Burgoyne sailed for England after his 
memorable defeat, and it was across this Bay that 
Prescott was rowed by the daring Barton. Here the 
French brought joy to the hearts of the distressed ; 
here they gayly sang and danced, and here their 
funeral dirge followed De Ternay to his early grave. 
Here the privateers that swarmed from this and other 
ports, found shelter and a market for their prizes. 
Here Cook's famed ship Endeavor, dismantled, con- 
demned and left to decay upon the shore. Here 
Perry, in his gunboats, burned for a nobler field; 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 



19 



here the Lexington landed his remains in after years ; 
and here the Macedonian, prize of the United States, 
was first brought to anchor beneath the stars and 
stripes. Or if we turn to Colonial times, we see the 
httle sloop boldly sent out to cope with a lawless 
rover ; the three small vessels furnished to aid in the 
capture of Port Royal and the ten or fifteen privateers 
that joined in the attack on Louisburg. These and 
many other scenes, alike interesting, have been enacted 
in 




NEWPORT HARBOR. 

Those who would view it from the finest point, 
should spend an hour on these gentle slopes. To the 
north the waters of the Bay are seen reaching far 
inland, broken by numerous small islands and the 
sails of vessels passing to and fro. On Goat Island, 
direcily in front of the spectator, stand the remains of 
Fort Wolcott, originally called Fort Ann, subsequently 
named Fort George, and at a later period known by its 
present name. On the island in mid-channel — Rose 
Island — portions of a considerable fort are still visi- 



20 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

ble ; but from long neglect, the breastwork and bar- 
racks have fallen into complete ruin. Coasters' Har- 
bor Island is seen to the north, just beyond the city, 
and the large building rising from its centre is the 
Asylum of the Poor. There Clarke and his small 
band of followers landed in 1639, in search of a spot 
whereon to found a settlement. The beauties of the 
scene, and the advantages of ihe land-locked harbor, 
they could appreciate ; and to clear the swamp where 
portions of Newport now stand, the aid of their Indian 
allies was obtained. The large work to the left is 
Fort Adams. It was commenced in 1814, and up to 
the close of 1850 had cost the government $1,692,000. 
With the redoubt at the south, it is calculated to mount 
four hundred and sixty-eight gims, and will garrison 
three thousand men. 

The road will take us directly to the Fort. As we 
approach, we pass over a fine causeway to the east, 
and here gain another view of the city. But pause a 
moment, i-eave the road, and descend to the shore of 
Brenton's Cove, just beyond the government stables, 
where the best view may be obtained. The tall and 
delicate spires of the Churches cut sharp against the 
blue sky ; the public buildings stand out in noble 
relief; and the line of houses, as they rise one above 
another on the hill-side, are broken by open grounds 
and clusters of shade trees. Each spot on which the 
eye may chance to rest, recalls some event that trans- 
pired there in earlier times. 

Entering the main work from the east, we at once 
open on the parade ground — covering not less than 
eleven acres — where, on Tuesday and Friday, in the 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 21 

summer, at 6 P. M., when there are troops stationed 
here, the band plays for an hour At such times the 
vehicles of visitors drive round and round the square, 
an endless chain, in the centre of which the band 
stand, filling the air with delightful music. 

Leaving the Fort for a wider scope, we again take 
the road leading west. A short distance from the 
first gate, stands a dark house with brick ends. It is 
all that remains of one of the most noted dwellings in 
the early history of the Island. It was built by Gov. 
William Brenton, who then owned nearly the whole 
Neck ; and the grounds through which the road now 
winds, were adorned with rare and costly plants, 
gravel walks, groves and bowers, and all that wealth and 
a refined taste could obtain in this and foreign lands. 

The road passes through several fine farms, to the 
last — the Castle Hill Farm — on the western shore of 
the Neck. Passing through the farmyard, the road 
leads directly to the beach, where fine breakers may 
at all times be seen. 

The rising ground to the right is surmounted by a 
rampart that once was garrisoned, but now it can 
scarcely be distinguished from the inequalities of the 
surrounding earth. It still retains the name of Castle 
Hill. 

The water at the base of these rocks is twenty-nine " 
fathoms in depth, and during the spring and fall this 
is the resort of the tautog fishers. 

A short distance to the south, and extending a mile 
into the sea, Brenton's Reef shows its dangerous 
rocks, its entire length traced by the breakers that 
continually tumble over the higher points. The boat- 



22 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 



men find fish abundant along these rocks, but it re- 
quires skill and experience to approach a shore so 
treacherous. The grass has not yet grown over the 
graves of four unfortunate seamen who here perished 
with their vessel. 

Beyond the reef, and some three miles from land, 
rides the lightboat Brenton's Reef ; and in the extreme 

distance, 

*' Veiled in thin mist of softest blue," 

one easily discerns the outlines of Point Judith and 
Block Island. 

The next point of interest along this shore is 
Grave's Point, so named from the graves of two un- 
known men who were there washed ashore, and were 
buried where 

" No tears but the spray wet the mariner's grave, 
And the sea breathes for ever his dirge." 

In returning we take the old road, which turns off 
at a point east of Fort Adams, on the top of the hill, 
and comes out near the 




LILY POND 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 23 

A favorite spot and the largest sheet of spring 
water on the Island. From the hill, over which the 
road winds, the view is ever pleasing. The pond is 
placed between picturesque hills — those on the left 
abound with trees — gently fallin gto the shingle on the 
south, known as the Rocky Farm beach. 

The waters of Lily Pond are famous for perch, 
great numbers of which are taken by the angler an 
hour before and after dusk ; fishing from banks that 
are fragrant with wild flowers, and casting his hook 
beneath the matted leaves of the pond lily that rise 
to the surface on every hand. 

'* Bright and queen-like the array 
Of Lilies in their crystal bed : 
Like chalices for Beauty's lip 
Their snowy cones half open lie, 
The dew-drops of the morn to sip. 
But close to day's intrusive eye." 

Beyond the Lily Pond, looking seaward, there is a 
view of Gooseberry Island, with its , picturesque 
groups of stunted sumacs, and its barriers of dark 
rocks, here and there whitened by the breaking 
waves ,• and far off on the horizon are seen the sails 
of vessels passing east and west — a fairer scene on a 
quiet summer's day one is seldom permitted to enjoy. 

From the Lily Pond the road to the left leads to 
the Beach, and on the extreme end of the point, on 
the same hand, will be found the far famed Spouting 
Cave. 

One may approach it at this season to hear the surf 
beating against the sides of the inmost caverns, but 
to see it spout volumes of water from the " horn" — as 
it is sometimes called — it must be visited after a 






24 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED 




SPOUTING CAVE. 

tempest from the SE., during the winter or spring 
months. At such times, when the whole ocean, as far 
as the eye can reach, is lashed into fury, and the 
breakers dash against the rocks with a force that makes 
the whole earth tremble, the spray mounts in clouds, 
and all who venture too near, are wet with mist. 
Then, when all nature is in commotion, the Spouting 
Cave catches the wild spirit and adds its thunder to 
awe the more hardy, should they approach its mouth. 
The waves madly sporting on the shore, rush with 
terrific fury through its open throat into the bowels 
of the rock ; there meeting a wall of adamant, 
chafed, torn and shivered, they find vent above in a 
jet of foam that darts far upward in the air, and 
spreads its whitening mist on all around. Man gazes 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 25 

on the ocean appalled. The sky is dark and lower- 
ing, the earth quivers beneath his feet, the waters 
give an angry roar and again rush headlong to the 
shore, as if to annihilate the very rocks that oppose 
their way. 

Who can gaze upon the quiet ripple of to-day, and 
feel without awe, that nature can in a moment change 
her peaceful lullaby for the storm king's awful note- ' 
3 



CHAPTER IV. 




CITY HALL. WASHINGTON SQUARE. CO.M. PERRY S HOQSK. 

ZION CHURCH. CENTRAL BAPTIST CHURCH. DR. STILES. 

NEWPORT ARTILLERY. VERNON MANSION HOUSE. HON. 

WM. VERNON. LANDING OF WASHINGTON AND RECEPTION 

BY ROCHAMBEAU. ILLUMINATION OF THE TOWN- 



AT the head of Long Wharf and facing the Parade, 
stands the City Hall, a brick building of goodl 
proportions and dating back to 1763. It was erected 
as a public market and granary, and by the older 
inhabitant, is still called the '' Granary." For a 
number of years the upper story was used as a 
Theatre ; subsequently it was renovated and con- 
verted into a public hall, now known as the City Hall 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 27 

The lower story has always been devoted to a mar- 
ket and the watch-house. 

The large building opposite to the City Hall, making 
the south corner of the Parade and Thames Street, has 
been lately erected, and is on the site of a h.oiiso now 
removed to Bridge Street. It was owned by Dr. Isaac 
Senter, and was occupied by him during his residence 
in Newport. 

Dr. Senter was born at Londonderry, N. H., about 
1753, and for the first seventeen years of his life he 
lived on his father's farm. Up to that time he had no 
knowledge of books; but meeting with a few stray 
volumes, he eagerly devoured their contents, sought 
means to obtain a further supply, and soon became a 
giant in study. He first studied medicine in New- 
port, with whom it is not certain ; but the impression 
of one who knew him is, that it was with Dr. Gray, 
who practised here at that time. Dr. Senter soon 
became distinguished in his profession, in Europe as 
well as in the United States, and for many years he 
was a regular correspondent of the Royal Society of 
Medicine. His remains were interred in the North 
Burying Ground, near the west gate. 

On the right hand, turning up the Parade, we enter 
Washington Square. On the left, and at the loot of 
the Mall, there is a granite fountain that discharges 
pure spring water at all seasons. On each side of it 
is acanncm planted as a post. These were taken fro:n 
the British privateer Tartar, captured 1779. Tue 
triangular piece of ground containing about an acre, 
enclosed by a white paling and studded with tine 
shade trees, is the Mall, and the only place in the 



28 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

city where young children can play and enjoy the air 
without danger from passing vehicles. 

On the south side of Washington Square, a few 
doors from Thames Street, stands the house where 
Commodore Perry resided after the battle of Lake 
Erie. It is a large square building, erected before 
the Revolution by a Mr. Levy, a Jew, and contains a 
wide hall, fine large rooms, and is elaborately finished 
within. A view of it is given at the head of this 
chapter. The house is at present owned and occu- 
pied by Mrs, Perry, widow of the Commodore. 

Oliver Hazard Perry, son of Chris. Raymond Perry, 
was born in Narragansett, Aug. 23d, 1785, and when 
thirteen years of age he entered the service as mid- 
shipman, on board the sloop-of-war General Greene, 
commanded at that time by his father, but his warrant 
was not dated until the following year. On the break- 
ing out of the Tripolitan war, he was ordered to join 
the Adams,, commanded by Capt. Campbell, with 
whom he continued until Commodore Preble was 
superseded by Commodore Morris, when he returned 
in the frigate New York to the United States. It 
was during this cruise that he was promoted to an 
acting lieutenancy. In 1804 he joined the squadron 
at Malta, where he remained until the conclusion of 
the peace with Tripoli, when Com. Rogers shifted 
his flag from the Constitution to the Essex, and took 
Perry with him to the United States in the capacity 
of second lieutenant. During the Embargo he was 
employed in building seventeen gunboats at New- 
port, Rhode Islfind, and in 1810 he superseded Capt. 
Jones in the command of the United States schooner 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 29 

Revenge, attached to the squadron of Com. Rogers, 
lying at New London. The schooner was lost on 
Watch Hill Reef; a court of inquiry investigated all 
the facts of the case, by whom the conduct of the 
commanding otlicer was highly applauded. In 1811 
Capt. Perry married Miss Mason, daughter of the 
late Dr. Mason, of Newport. On the bre;ikiiig out of 
the late war with Great Britain, he was ordered to 
take command of the United Stales flotilla lying at 
Newport; and in February, 1813, he was a])p()inted, 
with rank of master commander, to the command of 
the United States naval I'orce on Lake Erie. 

For a truthful and eloquent account of the Battle 
of Lake Erie, the reader is referred to an oration de- 
livered at the celebration of the forlicih anniversary 
of the Tenth of September, by Hon. Geo. H. Cal- 
vert. 

In 1819 Com. Perry was dispatched with the sloop- 
of-war John Adams and schooner Nonsuch, on a mis- 
sion to Angostura, the seat of the Insurgent Govern- 
ment on the Main. While on his way in the Non- 
such from the mouth of the Orinoco, to join the John 
Adams at Trinidad, he was taken with the yellow 
fever, and expired before he reached the latter vessel. 
He was buried at Trinidad with funeral honors, and 
in 1826 the remains were brought to Newport in the 
sloop-of-war Lexington, and landed at Overing's 
wharf, Nov. 27th. The following Monday, Dec. 4th, 
they were interred with honors due to his rank and 
services. Since then the State has erected a hand- 
some monument to the memory of the departed hero. 
It stands on the west side of the Island Cemetery, 
3* 



30 NEWPORT ILLUSTPxATED. 

and is composed of a shaft of granite on a square 
pedestal that rises from a grassy mound. On the four 
sides of the pedestal there are appropriate inscrip- 
tions, and at the base rest the remains of Commodore 
Perry and three of his children. 




THE PERRY MONUMENT. 

Passing up Washmgton Square, we arrive at Zion 
Church, a modern pile with a Grecian portico. It is 
an Episcopal Church, and in the most flourishing 
condition. But recently it has been much improved, 
by extending the rear of the building so as to admit 
of a wider space around the chancel, and a conven- 
ient vestry room has also been added. The rector is 
Rev. Mr. Childs. 

We enter Clarke Street for a moment to examine 
the Central Baptist Church. The building was 
erected by the Second Congregational Society in 
1733 or 1735, and at the time the British took pos- 
sesgion of the Island, it was under the pastoral 
charge of Rev. Dr. Stiles, afterward President of 
Yale College. 

Dr. Stiles was regularly installed pastor of the 
Church Oct., 1755, and he immediately entered upon 
the duties of his oflice with that ardor and industry 



i 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 31 

which characterized all his undertakings. Soon after 
his settlement he was appointed librarian of the Red- 
wood Library, and his interest in that institution was 
unabated during his lifetime. Within its quiet walls 
he spent much of his time, and through his instru- 
mentality the collection was greatly cnlnrgod. It 
was his proposition that a collection of Theological 
books be made, and, aided by Rev. Dr. West, of Dart- 
mouth, he commenced the laborious undertaking. 
Many of the books purchased at his suggestion bear 
his marginal notes. 

The life of Dr. Stiles, during his residence on this 
Island, was marked by the most exalted love of reli- 
gion, unweiiried assiduity, and a uniform regularity 
in all the walks of life. His memory was retentive, 
and at all times exhibited an extraordinary degree of 
activity. He was ever engaged in study, and early 
in life attained a high reputation for his learning, 
eloquence and piety. He was a constant reader of 
works of a philosophical character, delighted in sci- 
entific experiments, and for the better cultivation of 
this taste, he carried on an extensive correspondence 
with learned men in this and foreign countries. With 
Dr. Franklin he was intimate, and through the influ- 
ence of the latter the degree of D. D. was conferred 
upon him by the University of Edinburgh. As a 
teacher of youth. Dr. Stiles was eminently success- 
ful. He instilled into their minds a love of books, 
and by his parental care won the confidence and 
esteem of all who were intrusted to him. 

Dr. Stiles died at New Haven, May 12th, 1795, 
after an illness of only a few days. 



32 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

From the Newport Mercury, of 1767, we extract 
the following, as giving a lively picture of the manner 
in which a clergyman's salary was paid when money 
was scarce and only to be obtained by the few. 

" Last Wednesday thirty-seven young ladies of this town 
made the Rev. Dr. Stiles's lady a visit. They sent their 
wheels, and carried flax enough for a moderate day's spinning, 
having agreed to have no trial who should spin most, but to 
spin good fine yarn, and as much as they could without 
fatiguing themselves ; and accordingly they spent the day in 
a very agreeable, industrious manner ; and at sunset made 
Mrs. Stiles a present of about one hundred 15-knotted skeins 
of yarn fine enough for shirts for the best gentleman in 
America. 

The Church edifice suffered severely at the hands 
of the British. All the pews were broken up and 
destroyed, and a chimney was run up through the 
centre of the building. After the evacuation it was 
restored, and was used for public worship. The last 
who presided over the society was the Rev. Dr. Pat- 
ten, who was settled over the Church about forty-six 
years. After his death the society joined the Con- 
gregational Church in Spring Street, and the Clarke 
Street Church gradually fell into disuse, until finally 
it was closed altogether. A ^ew years since it was 
purchased by the Baptists, and a new society — the 
Central Baptist — was formed. The building has 
undergone many alterations, and all for the better. It 
has been lengthened and elevated, the whole interior 
arrangement changed, and the exterior has also been 
much improved. 

The society is under the charge of Rev. Henry 
Jackson. 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 33 

The next building south of the Central Baptist 
Church, is the Armory of the Newport Artillery — a 
distinguished corps that dates from 1741 . This ancient 
company has always been sustiinel by the citizens 
of Newport, and its ranks have been filled by father 
and son for generations. The Newi)ort Artillery is 
the body guard of the Governor of the State. 

At the corner of Mary and Clarke Streets stands a 
venerable building, still in the most perfect order, and 
promising to resist the stormy winters of another 
century. Like many others of the class in the city, 
it is framed of oak, based on a heavy foundation, and 
elaborately finished within and without. The style, 
of which it is a fair specimen, was very generally 
adopted at the period when Newport ranked second 
only to Boston in commercial prosperity. In those 
days attention was paid to the materials employed as 
well as to the general appearance of an edifice, and 
the merchants, who desired to build, had the means to 
secure dwellings substantial in construction, elaborate 
in all the nicer portions, and correct in design. Houses 
of this description, at the present time, in an excellent 
state of preservation, give shelter to the children of 
the fifth and sixth generations. 

The house before us is known as the Vernon Fam- 
ily Mansion, and was owned and occupied by the late 
Hon. William Vernon, whose public services require 
something more than a passing notice. 

In the annals of Rhode Island there are names of 
greater note than that of William Vernon ; but of all 
who entered heart and soul into the cause of Freedom, 
and were most prominent in that fearful struggle for 



34 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED 




VERNON FAMILY MANSION. 



Independence, not one is more deserving- of the high- 
est honors. Had Mr. Yernon taken up arms in the 
common defense, his name would have found a dis- 
tinguished place on the page of history ; but his store 
of knowledge was of infinitely more value to the 
country than personal prowess. His labors were of 
the Council ; and as President of the Eastern Navy 
Board, at Boston, his energies were directed to the 
formation of a Navy that should battle with the enemy 
on the ocean — a gigantic undertaking for that day, 
and one that, by the brilliancy of its success, entitles 
the members of the Board to lasting gratitude. 

When the blow fell upon the Colonies, and every 
" Son of Freedom " was called upon to take an active 
part in repelling the common foe, Mr. Yernon relin- 
quished all priA'ate claims, and at once brought his 
extensive knowledge of mercantile and marine affairs 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 35 

to the aid of the government ; and to his unflinching 
devotion to Liberty, personal sacrifices and extraordi- 
nary exertions, America, under Providence, owes 
much of her success upon the sea. And but for his 
systematic arrangement of all business transactions, 
whether of a public or private nature, the world could 
not have known the extent of his usefuhiess, or the 
debt of gratitude due to his memory. His services 
for years were given to the country without charge, 
notwithstanding his large estate, acquired through 
numerous enterprises previous to the war, was greatly 
reduced by the events of those trying times. Of these 
losses, he says in one of his letters under date of Oct. 
10, 1778: 

" If we establish our rights and liberty upon a firm and 
listing basis, on the winding up of this bloody contest, I am 
content ; although I own if I could come at the property our 
enemies are possessed of, belonging to me, it would increase 
the pleasure. 1 do assure you it is no less a sum than twelve 
thousand pounds stg., at least, besides my real estate at New- 
port ; yet I can with truth say it never broke my rest a mo- 
ment." 

At the close of the war, Mr. Vernon again entered 
on a commercial life, and he continued his devotion 
to it almost to the day of his death, which event 
occurred at the Mansion House Dec. 22d, 1806, hav- 
ing nearly closed his 87th year. 

During his lifetime, Hon. Wm. Vernon was asso- 
ciated with the most eminent men in the country, and 
was in familiar correspondence with La Fayette, 
Adams, Viscount Noaille, Franklin, and other men of 
note in his day. He was a great friend of learning, 
and was appointed President of the Redwood Library 
on the death of its founder and first President ; and 



36 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED 

the Second Congregational Church owed much to his 
liberality. 

During the time the British were in possession of 
the Island, the Vernon house, in common with others, 
was occupied by troops, and it was only on the evac- 
uation that it was restored to the rightful owner. 
When the French fleet arrived, it was made the head- 
quarters of Count Rochambeau, who here entertained 
Washington at the time of his first visit to Newport. 

Gen. Washington, on that occasion, was received 
at the ferry in Jamestown, by the Admiral's barge, 
and conducted on board his ship. Of his ! iding in 
Newport there are several accounts — all i < ;•(• or less 
incorrect. The following was given to us ! y ;;n eye- 
witness, who still lives to relate the de ■.!'.^ ef lr 
event which was hailed with joy by the i:iL..bi!:.iits 
of the town. 

Washington landed at Barney's Ferry- — ho cerner 
of the Long Wharf and Washington Strc;.!. The 
French troops formed a close line, three deep on 
either side, from the ferry house up the Long Wharf 
and Washington Square to Clarke Street, where it 
turned at a right angle and continued to Rochambeau's 
head-quarters. The following night the town was 
illuminated. At that time the inhabitants were pov- 
erty stricken, and comparatively few were able to 
take part in the joyful ceremony ; but that all should 
share in the honors paid so distinguished a visitor, 
the Town Council ordered that candles should be 
purchased, and given to all who were too much dis- 
tressed, through continued losses, to purchase for 
themselves ; so that every house should show a light. 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 37 

The procession was led off by thirty boys, bearing 
candles fixed on staffs, followed by Gen. Washington, 
Count Rochanibeau and the other officers, their aids 
and the procession of citizens. The night was clear, 
and there was not a breath to fan the torches. The 
brilliant procession marched through the principal 
streets, and then returned to the head-quarters. On 
reaching the door, Washington waited on the step 
until all the officers and their friends had entered the 
house ; then, turning to the boys who had acted as 
torch-bearers, he thanked them for their attention. 
This was glory enough for the young patriots. 

An anecdote is related of Washington at this time. 
A little boy had heard so much of Washington, that 
he conceived a strong desire to see him. His father, 
to gratify his wish, lifted him in his arms and ap- 
proached an open window, near which Washington 
stood, whom he pointed out. The child was amazed, 
and exclaimed aloud : " Why, father, Gen. Washing- 
ton is a man !" It reached the ear of the hero, who 
turned round and said, as he patted the boy on the 
head : " Yes, my lad, and nothing but a man." 

This anecdote has been repeatedly told, but it has 
not been properly located until now. 
4 



CHAPTER V. 

THE STATE HOUSE AND PARADE. STUARt's PICTURE OF WASH' 

INGTON. JUDGE LIGKTFOOT. 

EETURNING to Washington Square, and crossing 
the Mall, we approach the 




STATE HOUSE, 

a building of fine proportions, and one worthy of note 
tor the taste and judgment displayed in its adornment. 
The edifice faces the Parade, and stands on a high 
foundation of freestone. It is built of brick, with 
window caps and other projections of freestone. Over 
the front there is a fine clock,* recently put up in 

* This clock will be nightly illuminated as soon as a proper 
dial can be fitted to it. 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 39 

place of one that had served to mark the hours for 
seventy years. The roof is surmounted by a cupola, 
in which there is a bell. The building stands in an 
open square, and we may enter from the north, south 
or west, by a lofty flight of steps. The west is the 
principal entrance. From these steps the late Major 
John Handy read the Declaration of Independence on 
the 20th of July, 1776, and at the expiration of fifty 
years he read it again from the same place, on which 
occasion the steps and the balcony above were deco- 
rated with wreaths of flowers. 

The State House was used as a hospital in succes- 
sion by the British and French troops. After the 
glass was destroyed, the windows were battened up, 
leaving only a small opening, with a slide, for air ; 
and in the lower room, against the south door, the 
French erected an altar, where the services of the 
Roman Catholic Church were performed for the sick 
and dying. 

The last time that Washington visited Newport, a 
dinner was given in honor of the occasion. The 
table was spread the entire length of the lower floor 
of the State House. The citizens generally contrib- 
uted to the entertainment, freely loaning their plate, 
and nearly every family could contribute a portion. 
The salvers, dishes, covers, goblets, pitchers, and 
knives and forks, were all of silver, and these, together 
with a profusion of cut glass, gave the table an ele- 
gant appearance. 

The lower floor is one large hall, and here, when 
under the town form of government, all voting on 
public questions took place. It is still used on occa- 



40 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

sion of large gatherings. The second story is reached 
by a wide flight of stairs. The north room is used 
as the Representative Hall ; it is commodious and 
well arranged. It is here also that the United States 
Courts hold their sessions. The south room, the 
Senate Chamber, is small, and the walls are too dark 
to appear well. 

In the Senate Chamber there is a fine full length 
portrait of Washington, by Stuart, which was pre- 
sented to the town by that great painter. The por- 
trait is one of Stuart's finest works, and is highly 
valued by the inhabitants. To preserve it from injury, 
it is protected by a glass ca^e. 

In front of the State House is the Parade, a large 
and beautiful square, neatly paved, and bordered on 
the north by a row of fine old fashioned houses, and 
on the south by the trees in the Mall. The street 
leading from it to the north is Broad Street, and con- 
nects with the main road. Portions of Broad Street 
are shaded by a fine growth of elms, which, in some 
places, nearly meet overhead. 

The house opposite the State House, and almost 
fronting it, now occupied by Mr. Stephen Albro's 
grocery, was once the residence of Judge Lightfoot, 
one of the most distinguished members of the R. I. 
Bar in early colonial times. 

Robert Lightfoot came to Newport in 1716, from 
England, for his health, and was so charmed with 
the Island that he designed to spend the remainder 
of his days here. He was a graduate of Oxford, and 
was appointed Judge of Vice-Admiralty in the South- 
ern District of the United States, under George II., 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 41 

an office which he resigned. It is said of him that 
he was an accomplished classical scholar, and his 
intellectual acquirements were very extensive. 

Judge Lightfoot was a great epicure ; and it is 
related of him by his biographer, that after dinner a 
few glasses of wine were necessary, and then followed 
the '' feast of reason and the flow of soul." Disquisi- 
tions on various subjects, historic incidents and lively 
anecdotes ,• and after the company were withdrawn 
from the table, Hudibras was occasionally introduced, 
and Lightfoot read in his inimitable style, and dis- 
coursed upon the times and character delineated in 
the poem. 

Judge Lightfoot removed to Plainfield, Conn., 
where he died. His daughter survived him many 
years, and died in Newport, 
4* 



CHAPTER VL 

CHURCH STREET. RESIDENCE OF REV. JAMES HONYMAN. JAMES 

HONYMAN, ESQ. MRS. COWLEY's ASSEMBLY ROOM. BALL GIV- 
EN BY THE FRENCH OFFICERS. BALL GIVEN BY THE CITIZENS 

TO VS^ASHINGTON AND ROCHAMBEAU. BALL GIVEN TO PRESI- 
DENT WASHINGTON TRINITY CHURCH. FUNERAL OF CHEVA- 
LIER DE TERNAY. RECTORS OF TRINITY CHURCH. DESTRUC- 
TION OF THE ALTAR PIECE AFTER THE EVACUATION. — BISHOP 
BERKELEY. 

¥E pass up Church Street, but not without pausing 
to note the objects on the way. 

The house making the south corner of Church and 
Thames Streets, now occupied by B. Mason Ham- 
mett,was owned and occupied by Rev. James Hony- 
man, who was rector of Trinity Church so early as 
1704. He was appointed missionary, and sent over 
to this station by the " Society for propagating the 
Gospel in Foreign Parts," and brought with him, as 
a present to the church, a valuable library of the best 
theological books of that day. Many of these books 
are still in the possession of the church. Mr. Hony- 
man served the society for nearly fifty years, and was 
instrumental of much good. 

The house at that day presented an appearance 
similar to many then in use. The windows were 
glazed with diamond panes in frames of lead, and 
unique window casings, and the whole exterior. 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 43 

shaded by heavy projections, was painted a bright 
red color. 

James Honyman, Esq., son of the rector, resided 
with his father. He was elevated in the profession 
of the law at an early age, and held many important 
offices. In his 28th year he was elected Attorney 
General of the colony, which office he held for a 
number of years, and was subsequently King's Attor- 
ney for the County of Newport. Mr. Honyman was 
also one of the committee on the Eastern Boundary 
question, and was one of the counsel who argued the 
case in behalf of Rhode Island, before the Commis- 
sioner appointed by the Crown, at Providence, in 
1741. After resigning his seat in the Senate, he was 
appointed Advocate General of the Court of Vice- 
Admiralty in the colony, but on the breaking out of 
'the difficulties with the mother country, he delivered 
his commission to the Governor, at the request of the 
Legislature, to be lodged in the Secretary's office. 
As a speaker, Mr. Honyman is described as elabo- 
rate ; in deportment, as dignified ; and his practice 
was both extensive and profitable. 

The third building on the right — bearing visibly 
the marks of age in all its parts, yet straining, as it 
were, to keep up an appearance of respectability, 
under a coat of whitewash — was in earlier times the 
assembly room of Newport, and was kept by Mrs. 
Cowley, who, a hundred years ago, was known to all 
the region round. 

In the second story, now subdivided into numerous 
small apartments, one can trace the size and shape of 
the hall which was then enlivened by the distin- 



44 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

guished at home and abroad. Here Prince De Bro- 
glio, Count de Segur, Count De Vauhan, and many 
other officers attached to the Count De Rochambeau's 
army, gave a ball to the ladies and gentlemen of 
Newport. One who was present makes the following 
record of the brilliant affair : 

" The room was ornamented in an exceedingly splendid 
manner, and by the judicious arrangement of the various deco- 
rations, exhibited a sight beautiful beyond expression, and 
showed the great taste and delicacy of Monsieur De Zoteux, 
one of the aids of the Baron De Viomenil. A superb collation 
was served, and the ceremonies of the evening were conducted 
with so mvich propriety and elegance, that it gave the highest 
satisfaction to all who had the honor to be present." 

It was here that the citizens of Newport gave a 
ball in honor of Washington and Rochambeau, and 
on this occasion Washington opened the ball. The 
dance selected by his partner was ^' A Successful , 
Campaign," then in high favor ; and the French offi- 
cers took the instruments from the musicians, and 
played while he danced the first figure with one of 
the most beautiful and fascinating of Newport's many 
belles. These sketches, by her grandson, were pre- 
pared in the room in which her parents entertained 
Washington at tea on the day of the ball. 

And here, when peace was declared, and Washing- 
ton was our President, another entertainment was 
made for him by the inhabitants ; at which time the 
hall was dressed with great taste, and the dancing 
was opened with Washington's March. 

Passing up the street a short distance, we enter 
the yard of Trinity Church. Here every spot is 
planted with graves ; the very walks and steps sepul- 







.■ ,'.-^«J-T-. 
T R I N I T Y C n L R C H 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 45 

cher the dead. Many who took an active part in 
colonial times, here find a common resting-place. 
The first grave as we enter, on the left, is that of 
Nathaniel Kay, Esq., Collector of the King's Customs, 
who in his will handsomely endowed the church. 
Here the remains of the Chevalier De Fayelle, aid- 
de-camp to La Fayette, found a resting-place ; here 
Bishop Berkeley resigned an infant daughter to the 
earth; and there, by the church side, covered by a 
few boards to preserve it from further injury, stands a 
monument erected at the charge of royalty over the 
remains of the Chevalier De Ternay. One who still 
lives to converse upon the past, well remembers the 
pageant on the burial of that lamented soldier. He 
was in the chamber where De Ternay died, when 
the body was placed in the coflJin, and followed the 
cortege — the most imposing ever witnessed in these 
streets — to the grave, where the priests, nine in num- 
ber, chanted the funeral service, and the sailors who 
bore the corse slowly resigned it to the earth. 

The monument is composed of a large, and once 
beautiful, slab of Egyptian marble. The inscription 
was in gold. It was designed for the interior of the 
church, but as no suitable place could be found for it 
within the walls, it was placed nearly over the grave, 
where it has gradually cracked and fallen away. 

The venerable church now numbers one hundred 
and twenty-eight years, and occupies the site of the 
first Episcopal church erected on the Island. We 
have not room for its long list of rectors, and to speak 
of their good deeds would be to fill a volume ; but we 
cannot refrain from making mention here of one or 



46 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

two who were prominent in their day, and whose 
names will long be remembered in Rhode Island. 

Mr. Honyman, the first rector, was instrumental in 
building the present edifice. He labored long and 
faithfully, with a -salary of but £10 a year. In 1750 
he was gathered to his fathers, and on the west side 
of the yard his tombstone still may be seen. 

It was during the ministry of Mr. Honyman, that 
Dean Berkeley visited Newport. The Dean often 
officiated at Trinity Church. He was deeply inter- 
ested in the society, and on his return to Dublin, in 
1733, he presented the church with an organ, some 
account of which will be found on another page. 

Rev. Marmaduke Brown, prior to the Revolution, 
also officiated at this church with much success. He 
was a native of Ireland, a man esteemed for his tal- 
ents, learning and religion ; and after his death, in 
1771, his son, born in Rhode Island, and then Senior 
Fellow of Trinity College, Dublin, caused the monu- 
ment to be erected on the north side of the chancel 
to the memory of his father and mother. 

During the close of the last, and the opening of the 
present, century, Rev. Theodore Dehon, afterward 
Bishop of South Carolina, was at the head of the 
society. It was during his ministry that the affairs 
of the church were placed in a prosperous stale ; and 
of the harmony and Christian fellowship that prevailed 
we have an evidence in the fund of ten thousand 
dollars, then raised in the society and invested, the 
interest to be applied to the payment of the minister's 
salary. 

In later times, Rev. Salmon Wheaton presided over 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 47 

the society a period of thirty years, followed by Rev. 

Dr. Vinlon, now of Brooklyn, N. Y., and Rev. J. H. 

Black, who is the minister at the present time. 

The late Major Bull remarks : 

" A few days after the British left Newport, some young men 
of the town, and among them two American oilicers, entered 
the churcli and despoiled it of the altar-piece, consisting of the 
King's arms, the lion and the unicorn. They were highly or- 
namental, and were placed against the great east window. 
After trampling them under foot, they were carried to the North 
Battery, and set up for a target to fire at. The other emblems 
of royalty being out of reach, were suliered to remain. They 
consist of one royal crown on the spire, and another on the top 
of the organ. However little the present generation may care 
for baubles of that kind, still, the antiquity of these ornaments 
and the propriety of them in the day when they were put up, 
make them still interesting — as indicating, at the first view, to 
the stranger, the antiquity of the structure which contained 
them — and splendid for the days and countiy in which it was 
erected. This stiaicture has never been subjected to the hand 
of modern vandalism. The interior of the church is now the 
same as when Dean Berkeley preached in it, with the exception 
of the longitudinal enlargement, and the pulpit is now the 
only one in America ever graced by the occupancy of that dis- 
tinguished prelate. The church was at that time we are speak- 
ing of without ft minister. As it had been nursed by the High 
Church party in England, it was unpopular with the mass of 
the people, who were writhing under the scourge inflicted by 
that very party. The church edifice, too, had been spared by 
those invaders who worshipped in it, while the other places in 
the town they had desecrated — by converting them into riding 
schools or hospitals — and every part of them but the shells 
they had demolished." 

Passing up Church Street, we come to the Masonic 
Lodge, a large building, situated at the corner of School 
Street, and facing the west. It was erected in 1804. 
The hall on the lower floor is used for exhibitions, 
balls and other amusements ; and one of the side 
rooms is occupied by the Newport Historical Society, 
as a place of deposit for their collections. 

Turning off at this point, and passing through School 
Street to the corner of Mary Street, we have Trinity 



48 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

Church school-house on the one hand, and on the 
other the house in which the late William EUery 
Channing, Esq., was born in 1751. 

Wm. E. Channing was one of the earliest Attorney 
Generals of Rhode Island. He was a delegate to 
the Continental Congress, an opponent of the paper 
money party, and a devoted Federalist. Well read in 
the law, and interested in politics, he rose to distin- 
guished eminence, and at the time of his death he 
held the offices of General and District Attorney. 

The late Hon. Asher Robins says of Mr. Channing, 
in a communication to his biographer : 

" His manner of speaking at the bar was rapid, vehement 
and impressive ; never studied nor exactly methodical in his 
pleadings ; but he always came well prepared as to matter and 
authority. He had an extensive practice, attended all the 
Courts of the State regularly, and was considered for several 
years before his death as the leading counsel of the State. He 
died, I think, at about forty, and after a short illness." 

And his domestic traits are thus recorded by his 

father-in-law, the late Hon. M'm. Ellery : 

" The law of kindness and benevolence was in his heart and 
on his tongue. The persons employed by him as domestics, 
and in other services, he treated with great humanity, and 
rewarded with a liberal punctuality. He was an obedient and 
respectful son, and a most affectionate brother and friend. To 
the poor he was compassionate. The needy never turned away 
from his house empty. His table and his purse were always 
open to their wants, and his munificence was ever accompa- 
nied with a sweetness in the manner, which doubled the obli- 
gation of gratitude." 



CHAPTER VII 



EASTON S BEACH. — BATHING. PURGATORY. SACHUEST 1-OlNT. 

CAPTURE OF THE PIGOT BY MAJOR TALBOT. TAUTOG FISH- 
ING. BASS FISHING. 




HIS is the season to 
enjoy the walks along 
the cliffs and beaches. 
Long absent friends 
have returned to hear 
again the surf break- 
_ ing on the shore, and 
;~ strangerSjtoOjbythou- 
^.\• sands are here so- 
^^-n^'"^^ ' journing, who are pre- 

pared to participate in all that has the charm of novelty 
and to embrace every means calculated to relax the 
mind and strengthen the body. Let us, with these, 
stroll along the shore for an hour, and it may be that 
we shall derive both pleasure and profit from the 
walk. 

We are on Easton's Beach, a spot that Berkeley and 
Allston and Malbone and Channing loved to visit. 
Here they each, in turn, came for study and medita- 
tion, undisturbed save by the music of the tumbling 
surf. Of its influence over his mind, Channing thus 
made record : 



50 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED 



" In this town I pursued for a time my studies of theology. 
I had no professor or teacher to guide me ; but I had two noble 
places of study. One was yonder beautiful edifice, now so i 
frequented and so useful as a public library, then so deserted I 
that 1 spent day after day, and sometimes week after week, ' 
amidst its dusty volumes without interruption from a single 
visitor. The other place was yonder beach, the roar of which 
has p,o often mingled with the worship of this place, my daily 
resort, dear to me in the sunshine, still more attractive in the 
storm. Seldom do I visit it now without thinking of the work, 
which there, in the sight of that beauty, in the sound of those 
waves, was carried on in my soul. No spot on earth has helped 
to form me so much as that beach. There I lifted up my voice 
in praise amidst the tempest. There, softened by beauty, I 
poured out my thanksgiving and contrite confessions. There, f 
in reverential sympathy with the mighty power around me, I f 
became concious of power within. There, struggling thoughts 
and emotions broke forth, as if moved to utterance by nature's 
eloquence of the winds and waves. There, began a happiness 
surpassing all worldly pleasure, all gifts of fortune, the happi- 
ness of communing with the works of God." 

Tuckerman, in a volume of poems, also pays a ; 
tribute to Newport beach : 

" Thy breath, majestic Sea, was native air. 
And thy cool spray, like Nature's baptism, fell 
Upon my brow, while thy hoarse summons called 
My childhood's fancy into wonder's realm. 
Thy boundless azure in youth's landscape shone 
Like a vast talisman, that oft awoke 
Visions of distant climes, from w^eary round 
Of irksome life to set my spirit free ; 
And hence, whene'er I greet thy face anew, 
Familiar tenderness and awe return 
At the wild conjuration ; — fondest hopes. 
And penitential tears and high resolves 
Are born of musing by the solemn deep. 

" Then here, enfranchised by the voice of God, 
0, ponder not, with microscopic eye. 
What is adjacent, limited and fixed ; 
But, with high faith gaze forth, and let thy thought 
With the illimitable scene expand. 
Until the bond of circumstance is rent. 
And personal griefs are lost in visions wide 
Of an eternal future ! Far away 



50 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 51 

Where looms yon sail, that, like a curlew's wing, 
Prints the gray sky, are moored enchanted isles 
Of unimagined beauty, with soft airs 
And luscious fruitage and unclouded stars ; 
Where every breeze wafts music, every path 
By flowers o'erhu ng, leads to a home of love, 
And every life is glorified with dreams : 
And thus beyond thy present destiny, 
Beyond the inlet where the waves of Time 
Fret at their barren marge, there spreads a sea 
More free and tranquil, where the isles of peace 
Shall yield thy highest aspiration scope, 
And every sympathy response divine." 

During the summer months, the beach is daily vis- 
ited by hundreds, who array themselves in fancy 
costumes, and eagerly plunge into the tumbling surf. 
Gayly appareled beaux and belles vie in fantastic 
tricks, making the air ring with their careless laugh ; 
but the music of their merry voices and the roaring 
of the surf are occasionally made to play the second 
part to the screams of some timid girl, who would 
fain buffet with the waves, did her courage admit. 
She is vanquished at the outset, and the first wave 
that caresses her tiny feet banishes for ever her small 
stock of courage ; while her companions fearlessly 
ride the billows' snowy crest ; now floating lightly on 
the ocean's heaving bosom ; now diving beneath the 
surface, in search of old Neptune's sparkling treasures. 
Nought will the swimmer there find, save sand smooth 
and white, or perchance a few shells fringed with 
delicate coral and many-colored moss. 

Here, as well as on Sachuest Beach, one often 
sees fishermen drawing their nets for menhaden and 
blue fish or horse mackerel. The latter are often 



52 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 



taken in great abundance at the east end of Sachuest 
Beach. 

Passing over the Beach and the creek connecting 
Easton's Pond with the ocean, we cross the neck of 
land that divides the two beaches, and pause upon 
the bold line of rocks that face the shore. These 
rocks, called the Bluff, are composed of gray wacke, 
and many of them have been displaced from their 
original bed by some mighty convulsion of nature. 




BLUFF NEAR PURGATORY. 

Near the northern extremity of the Bluff, and at the 
highest point, there is a dark chasm, known as Pur- 
gatory. The general impression is that the rock at 
this point was divided by some sudden upheaving of 
the earth, though President Hitchcock has expressed 
the opinion that it resulted from the washing of the 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 53 

ocean at an early period in the world's history, at 
which time a larger portion of the earth was submerg- 
ed, and the less enduring portions of the rock gave 
way under the action of the sea. Be this as it may, 
it requires strong nerves to approach the brink and 
look down into the yawning abyss. By actual measure- 
ment, the chasm is one hundred and sixty feet in length ; 
width at top, from eight to fourteen feet ; width at 
bottom, from two to twenty-four feet; depth at the outer 
edge, fifty feet; depth of water at low tide, ten feet. 

One side of Purgatory is much higher than the 
other, and a few persons have been so daring as to 
leap across it. Two legends are connected with 
Purgatory. One is that the Devil once rewarded a 
sinning squaw for her murderous deeds, by throwing 
her down into the gulf. The foot-prints of His Ma- 
jesty are still visible in the rock, and some go so far 
as to point out the spots of her blood along the bluff. 
The other story is of a maiden who put the affections 
of her lover to the test, by requiring him to leap 
across the opening in the rock from the point where 
they stood ; declaring that if he did not confirm his 
vows of love by this act, he should never wed her. 
The youth, perceiving that she was really in earnest, 
boldly sprang to the opposite side ; then bowing to 
the heartless girl, and bidding her a final adieu, he 
left her on the rock speechless from remorse. 

Passing the second beach, we are on Sachuest 
Point, the extreme south-east of the Island. The 
waters on the left hand flow from Mount Hope Bay, 
and make the East River. 

Here a bold scene was witnessed in 1778. The 
5* 



54 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

British were then in possession of the southern portion 
of the Island, and they desired to cut off all communica- 
tion by sea with other portions of the State, To 
effect this, a galley was anchored directly in the pas- 
sage before us, armed with ten eighteen-pounders, 
besides ten swivels. In addition to this heavy arma- 
ment, she was protected by a strong boarding netting, 
and manned by a crew of forty-five men, under Lieut. 
Dudley. She was called the Pigot. In her position 
she could do much injury to the American forces by 
intercepting supplies ; and at last complaints became 
so general, that Major Talbot conceived the bold 
project of capturing her. To insure success, he ob- 
tained a small sloop, called the Hawk, equipped her 
with two three-pounders and sixty picked men from 
the various regiments quartered in Providence. The 
number was subsequently increased to seventy-five. 
After passing the fort at Bristol Ferry without receiv- 
ing any injury from the shots fired at him, he anchored 
in Mount Hope Bay, where he left the vessel in 
charge of Lieut. Baker, landed and rode down the 
shore to this point. Here he carefully inspected the 
galley. He found her armed at all points, but the 
result of his inspection was exhibited in a stronger 
determination to attack her, which resolution he car- 
ried into effect on a dark night, Nov. 4th, 1778. The 
attack is thus described by the biographer of Talbot :* 

" As the sloop dropped silently down the river, they lashed 
a kedge-anchor to the jib-boom, to tear, and at the same time 
grapple with the nettings of the Pigot. They drifted by the 
i'ogland fort under bare poles, without being discovered, 

* " Life of Talbot," by Henry T. Tuckerman. 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 55 

althoug-h they saw the sentinel each time he passed the bar- 
rack light. This was a most auspicious circumstance, for one 
shot would have given an alarm to the galley. All hands 
being ready for action, they again hoisted sail ; but fearing 
they should run astray of their object in the darkness, soon 
cast anchor once more, lowered a boat, and went in search of 
her with muffled oars. They had proceeded but a few rods 
when her sombre form was seen rising in the gloom ; they 
noted how she rode with the wind and tide, returned to the 
Hawk, and directed her course accordingly. Being soon per- 
ceived by the watch on the deck of the galley, they were 
repeatedly hailed, but made no answer; when nearly along- 
side, a volley of musketry was discharged at them ; but before 
the Pigot could fire one gun, the jib-boom of the Hav/k had 
torn its way through the nettings, and grappled the foreshrouds; 
while their salute had been amply returned, and Lieut. Helm, 
followed by his detachment, mounted the deck sword in hand. 
With shouts, the crew of the Hawk drove every man into the 
hold of the galley, except the commander, who fought despe- 
rately in his Dhirt and drawers, until convinced that resistance 
was useless. When informed, however, that he was van- 
quished by a little sloop, he wept over his inevitable disgrace, 
and Major Talbot in vain offered him the condolence which, 
as a generous victor, he felt at his mortification. This brilliant 
coup de main was effected without a loss on either side." 

On the rocks that surround Sachuest Point, we find 
the fisherman in his element. Let us watch his 
sports for a moment. 

The off rocks, at the northern extremity, are the 
Flints. There are fishers there, but the tide is near 
the flood, and to get to them water knee deep must 
be passed. The Shelf is farther to the south, and 
we already see enough to insure pleasure for the 
walk. A dozen or more are spread over the rock, 
some with poles, others with hand-lines, and all intent 
on securing a goodly bunch of tautog. One sees at 
a glance that they are amateurs. With them there is 
an old fisherman cutting bait, who, like an old hen 
scratching for a large brood, has as much as he can 



56 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

attend to. To cut a lobster into suitable portions for 
bait, is but the task of a few moments ; but he is con- 
stantly called from this necessary work, to teach the 
less expert how to tie the tempting morsel to the hook, 
to direct one where to throw, and at the same time 
unhook a fish caught by another. Observe, all the 
fish taken are small ; the old fisherman will give you 
as a reason for this, that there are too many sinkers 
in the water to insure the catching of a " white 
chin." 

At Checker Beach, there are but three fishing, and 
these form one party. Matters here are conducted 
in a manner wholly difi^erent. These sportsmen are 
after Bass. There is no running about the rocks, no 
unnecessary noise and confusion, and but one line is 
brought into play. Draw near, but keep low upon 
the rocks, and watch attentively their proceedings. 
The one in the rear has a basket of fresh menhaden 
near him ; with a bait-board and a sharp knife he 
scales these oily fish, taking a bait from each side, 
rejecting the head, and cutting the remainder into fine 
pieces. The small particles are then thrown into the 
water at intervals, and the scent spreads far and near, 
drawing the fish around the rock. Eighteen or twenty 
fathoms of line are coiled on the rock, and there is 
nearly as much more on the reel, ready in case a large 
bass is hooked. The hook is baited and skilfully cast 
just upon the edge of the white water, and the sports- 
man, lost to everything but the excitement of the 
moment, watches carefully his line and every move- 
ment in the water ; his foot advanced, and his hand 
raised to hook the fish that may chance to take his 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 57 

bait. The line is suddenly drawn out, and with a 
rapid movement, the hook is buried in the now 
frightened fish — a horse-mackerel, full of life and 
game to the last. The hook is again baited, and, with 
a few small lumps, cast into the boiling surge ; a huge 
bass has his eye upon it, and as it strikes the water, 
seizes it with a force that makes the line sing. The 
sportsman is prepared for the ccntest that he knows 
must follow ; his chum has already cleared the reserve 
line, and away dashes the fish, now below the sur- 
face, and again the rays of the sun flash from his 
sides as he breaks water ; but the strain is more than 
he can endure. He turns, and the line is gathered 
in at a rate that keeps it always bearing on his mouth, 
which is thus forced open ; but again he turns, and 
again the line runs through the fingers at a speed 
that often cuts into the flesh, and then the same com- 
motion on the surface ; until, at length, exhausted, 
nearly drowned, and after a few plunges, a few inef- 
fectual attempts to make another run, he is drawn 
slowly to the rock, and thence dragged to a place of 
safety by means of a gaff. The hook is once more 
babted, a few more lumps are thrown in, and a fresh 
hand takes the stand. Wishing him " good luck," 
we pass on. 

At Hobson's Hole the scene is changed. Here 
are two men in quiet possession of the rock ; they 
nave baited carefully for some time, and are at last 
rewarded by the sight of bass in the water. Slowly 
they have kept but one line going, and have already 
taken several fish, when the peace is broken by the 
appearance of a boat manned by one fisherman, who 



58 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

has the meanness to drop his grapnel on the very spot 
where they are throwing ; and see, he is preparing 
to avail himself of their morning's work. But listen ! 
he is hailed and warned off; threats he laughs at, 
and throws in his hook ; at demonstrations from the 
shore party he smiles, and perhaps chuckles, as he 
contemplates their discontented looks. His triumph 
is but short, for those on the rock gather from the beach 
on the left, a basket of smooth stones. The boatman 
laughs again, but a missile or two brings the laugh 
out on the other side of his mouth ; and in a few min- 
utes he becomes seriously alarmed for his safety. 
He begs lustily ; stones are the missiles from the 
shore ; he raises both hands imploringly ; showers of 
stones fall thick and fast on his devoted head ; he 
endeavors to screen himself under the gunwale of the 
boat ,• stones bring him on his feet again ; he looks 
to the spectators to intercede ; laughter and stones 
greet him ; he swears ; stones are the echoes ; he 
asks time ; stones are dealt out to him ; he seizes his 
oars to indicate that he is off; stones follow in his 
wake ; and when he is beyond the reach of further 
attacks, the fishing is resumed from the rocks, and 
the spectators, having enjoyed this amusing end to 
the day's sport, turn homeward. The next day the 
combatants meet, and they too enjoy a laugh. 



CHAPTER VIII. 



OLD STONE MILL. 




N the centre of an open lot, 
bounded by Pelham, Belle- 
vue, Mill and George Sts., 
stands a venerable pile, 
known to the world as the 
"Old Stone Mill," but 
sometimes it is spoken of 
as the " Newport Ruin '» 
and the " Round Tower." 
The stranger asks " when 
by whom was it built,"and from one 
he receives an answer that carries the 
mind back to the days when the Viking rover, 

" Wandering from his region frozen, 
On Vineland's shores delighted once to roam." 

And by another he is told that 

** This is the " Old Mill " of which they tell lies." 

The origin and ear?y history of the " Old Mill " is 
shrouded in mystery ; and this fact, coupled with its 
peculiar construction and isolated position, has led to 
many fruitless conjectures. The antiquarian claims 
for it the honor of having afforded a secure shelter to 
the Norsemen, who, they say, built it as a lookout 



60 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED 



4^ 







OLD STONE MILL. 



and a tower of defense. The matter-of-fact observers 
deny it this enviable renown, and maintain that it is 
neither more nor less than an " Old Mill," built by 
Gov. Benedict Arnold, the first Charter Governor of 
the Colony, who owned the property at the time of 
his death, and of it makes mention in his will, calling 
it " my stone built Wind Mill." 

The read.er who would possess all of interest that 
has been written on this subject, is referred to a pam- 
phlet entitled " The Controversy touching the oM 
Stone MiU." 



CHAPTER IX. 



REDWOOD LIBRARY. JEWISH CEMETERY JEWISH SYNAGOGUE. 

AT the time that Bishop Berkeley resided at New- 
port, a literary and philosophical society Avas 
formed by a number of gentlemen of the town. The 
society met weekly for debates and conversation upon 
questions of utility and interest ; and to enable them 
the more successfully to carry out their original plan, 
it was deemed expedient to secure a library. In this 
step we trace the foundation of the Redwood Library 
and Athenaeum. The attention of the society was 
immediately directed to the collection of books ; and 
in 1747 a great impulse was given by Abraham Red- 
wood, Esq., who placed at the disposal of the society 
jC500, for the purchase of standard books in London 
For the following sketch of the library- building, we 
are indebted to the history of the Library, introduced 
into the last published catalogue : 

" To give permanence and usefulness to his donation, Mr. 
Redwood enjoined on the society the duty of erecting an edi- 
fice, as a depository for such books as might be purchased. In 
pursuance of their object, a charter of incorporation was ob- 
tained in 1747, and the society in honor of their most liberal 
benefactor, assumed the name of the Redwood Library Com- 
pany For the erection of a library building, five thousand 
pounds were almost immediately subscribed by different citi- 
zens of the town. Henry Collins, Esq., proved a noble coad- 
jutor of Mr. Redwood, and presented in June, 1748, to the 
company, the lot of land, then called Bowling Green, on which 
the present library edifice now stands. 

6 



62 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

" The library building, which is a beautiful specimen of the 
Doric order, was commenced in 1748, and completed in 1750. 
The plan was furnished by Joseph Harrison, Esq., assistant 
architect of Blenheim House, England. He also superintended 
the erection of the edifice, with the committee of the company, 
consisting of Samuel Wickham, Henry Collins and John Til- 
linghast. The master-builders were Wing Spooner, Samuel 
Green, Thomas Melvil and Israel Chapman. The principal 
front is ornamented with a portico of four Doric columns, sev- 
enteen feet in hight, and projecting nine feet from the walla 
of the building. The edifice consists of a main building, and 
two small wings on each side, ranging in a line parallel with 
the west end of the building. The wings furnish two rooms 
of about twelve feet square The principal library room, occu- 
pying the whole of the main building, is thirty-seven feet long, 
twenty-six feet broad, and nineteen feet in hight. The whole 
building is supported by a substantial foundation raised seve- 
ral feet from the ground." 

Names of the leading men in the history of Rhode 
Island, are connected with this library. William 
Ellery, Stephen Hopkins, Daniel Updike, James 
Honyman, Jr., Dr, Stiles; and many others in turn 
were active members. 

Valuable presents have been made to the library at 
different times, and the late Judah Touro, Esq., in his 
will, bequeathed three thousand dollars to the Company, 
to be expended in books and repairs. In 1843 he 
gave a thousand dollars to defray the expense of 
re-setting the steps. 

The Library contains many old and valuable books 
that are now comparatively scarce ; but many of the 
finest works were carried off by the British troops, 
when they left the Island. The loss sustained at that 
time can never be replaced. The present number of 
volumes is between six and seven thousand. 

Continuing along Touro street to the north, the mas- 
sive granite gateway and fence, surrounding the Jewish 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 



63 




JEWISH CEMETERY. 

Cemetery will attract attention. It w^as erected in 1843 
by order of the late Judah Touro, Esq., at an expense 
of about $12,000. Mr. Touro was a native of 
Newport, and in these grounds repose the remains 
of his father and mother and other members of his 
family. The cemetery and the walk in front are kept 
in repair by a fund provided for that purpose through 
the liberality of Mr. Touro. 

The street to the right, and leading nearly north, is 
Kay street, named after Nathaniel Kay, Esq., 
of whom mention is made in a former chapter. Kay 
street is of ample width, and in time, the walks will be 
shaded by the ornamental trees that have been planted. 
The buildings — all erected within fifteen years — stand 
back from the street, and many of them are large and 



64 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

expensive, and not a few, are neat and picturesque 
cottages. 

The continuation of Touro street will bring us to 
the Jewish Synagogue, which stands in an open lot, 
surrounded by a granite fence, somewhat similar to 
that around the cemetery. The synagogue was built 
in 1762, and up to the war it was regularly opened for 
services ; at that time there were not less than sev- 
enty Jewish families residing in Newport, and many 
of their members were numbered among the most 
wealthy and influential citizens. It was the only 
place of worship in New England, where Hebrew 
was chanted and read weekly. Abraham Touro left 
the handsome sum of $20,000 in charge of the 
Town authorities, the interest to be expanded in 
keeping the synagogue and grounds, and the street 
leading to it, in good repair, and the wishes of the 
donor have been carefully complied with. 

In July, 1859, the improvements which had been in 
progress for some time upon t^e Redwood Library were 
completed. The front is unaltered. The wings on 
. the north and south were extended the entire length 
of the building. A new building, the north and south 
ends of which are, the one the actual, the other the 
fac-simile, east end of the old building, is now used as 
a reading room and picture gallery. This contains a 
large number of paintings, the gift of the late C. B. 
King, to whom the library is also indebted for a large 
bequest. The number of books has been very much 
enlarged, and the library is now a general place of 
resort, under the charge of its excellent librarian, Mr. 
B. H. Rhoades. 



'iiFr'iiiif ' ^"^^^^"V^^tj^^^ 




CHAPTER X. 

SOUTH TOURO STREET. BUILDINGS RECENTLY ERECTED. BOAT 

HOUSE LANDING. COGGESHALS' LEDGE. SPOUTING CAVE. 

WITHIN a few years a street has been opened run- 
ning south, in continuation of Touro Street, and 
called South Touro Street. It passed through several 
valuable farms, on the brow of the hill, the lots gently- 
falling away on either side. These lots were quickly 
taken up, either for building purposes or for specula- 
tion. Many of them have changed hands repeatedly, 
and always at a large advance ; but now they are 
principally owned by those who intend to occupy 
them. Buildings of every size, shape and style, have 
been erected, not a few at an enormous outlay, and 
the grounds have been adorned with rare plants and 
trees, and divided by paths sweeping in graceful lines 
in various directions. It is not necessary to point to 
individual specimens of taste ; visitors will have an 
opportunity of examining these princely mansions as 
they ride to the Boat House beyond, and to the beau- 
tiful beach to the right, where the road terminates. 

It will reward one to mount the rocks on either hand 
near the termination of the road, to gaze upon the 
open sea, that ever dashes its waves over the half 
submerged rocks along the coast. The line of rocks 
directly in front is Coggeshall's Ledge. It makes a 
6* 



66 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

fine breakwater, and fishermen take advantage of it 
to run in and land their boats near the boat house. 

From the point on the right, there is a fine view 
of Gooseberry Island, and in fine weather Block 
Island can plainly be seen, without the aid of a glass. 

Crossing the shingle to the west of the boat house, 
we may again approach the Spouting Rock, for it is 
situated on the extremity of the opposite point. 



CHAPTER XI. 



THE GLEN. 




HE Glen is one of 
the most charming 
spots on the Island, 
and the roads leading 
to it offer many beau- 
tiful and attractive 
points. It is situated 
about six miles from 
Newport, on the east side of the Island and about a 
mile off the main road. To reach it, we must leave 
the city at the head ^ of Broad Street and follow the 
road to the two-mile corner, turn to the right, where 
the road descends, cross a small brook and mount the 
opposite hill. The road is wide and always in good 
repair, though often dusty during the dry season. 

About five miles out we pass a handsome Episcopal 
church, built of stone, and liberally endowed by a 
lady who has done much to make her name beloved 
by all acquainted with her good works. 

Farther on we come to the Atlantic House, form- 
erly a tavern, but djow known only as a fashionable 
hotel. We believe it is generally well sustained 
during the season, and riding parties often pause here 
for refreshments, and to stroll through the gardens 



68 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 



and the grand old orchards, to the rear of the house. 

The next property beyond is owned by Miss 
Gibbs, and is known as Oakland. The large estate 
is beautifully adorned with shrubbery, and evergreen 
walks in which Dr. Channing spent many hours 
of his life in study. The house, hidden from view 
by the dense foliage, contains many gems of art, 
including the Jeremiah, by Allston. 

At the next corner stands the Union meeting house, 
where Dr. Channing usually preached, when on the 
Island. If used at all, at the present time, it is only 
occasionally by some one invited to preach, and we 
know not by what denomination it is owned. 




GLEN. 



A short distance beyond the meeting house, a side 
road turns off to the right and leads directly to the 
Glen. Passing throrigh the farm gate, that for years 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 69 

has been opened by a blind boy, on the approach 
of strangers, the road gently winds through a grove 
of heavy trees, that become dense as we advance, 
until we stand upon the shore of the little pond in the 
centre of the Glen. 

On one side is seen the old mill, its wheel turned by 
the falling water, breaking the stillness of the scene ; 
and on the right the water falls over the rocks, steal- 
ing along the valley, half hid from view by the flow- 
ers and the tall grass, until it is lost in the river 
just seen through the opening. 

On a fine afternoon hundreds visit this quiet spot, 
and the old woods are often made to ring with the 
merry laugh, or the gay song of some light hearted 
girl, in the full enjoyment of freedom from restraint, the 
gurgling of the brook, the fragrance of the wild flowers 
and the prospect of the distant shore from under the 
foliage that affords a grateful shade. 

One who is well acquainted with the Glen, says 
of it, " the deep valley so called, is as sweet a bit 
of inland scenery in its way, as the country aflfords. 
In the afternoon, when the lateral sunshine plays 
through the surrounding foliage, the old mill and the 
clear stream form an admirable study for the land- 
scape painter." 

Returning from the Glen, and before reaching the 
main road, we should pause at Mrs. Durfee's Tea 
House, where everything will be found in order for 
the reception of visitors, and one will long remember 
her generous hospitality. 



CHAPTER XII. 



EXCURSION OVER THE BAY. FORT ADAMS. 

THE DUMPLINGS. 



-ROSE ISLAND. 



M O N G 
•the many 
attract! o n s 
held out by 
Newport to 
those who 
are in 
search of 
recreation 
' and health 
giving ex- 
cise, there 
are none 
more con- 
genial than 
pi e a s u r e 
excursions 
ove r t h e 

waters of Narragansett Bay. Few visit the Island 
during the summer, without participating in the 
aquatic sports of the season, and it is rare to find one 
indifferent to the cool breezes and the jrentle undula- 




NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 71 

tin^ motion of the sea, as the boat with a swan-like 
grace dips from wave to wave. The harbor is pecu- 
liarly adapted to this amusement ; tide there is little 
or none, the few sunken rocks are marked by buoys, 
the wind is generally steady, and the boats and yachts, 
that are kept for the accommodation of the public, 
are safe and are managed by men who have been 
brought up upon the water. On a summers' afternoon 
the two harbors are enlivened by hundreds of these 
gaily painted boats, their snow-white sails spread to 
the breeze, and their gaudy colors marked clear and 
defined against the sky that may rival in its soft tone 
and boundless depths the azure robe of Italy. 

On Tuesday and Friday, when the fort is garri- 
soned, from six to seven, P. M., it is fashionable to 
visit Fort Adams, as at that hour the band is playing 
on the parade. On these occasions boats of every 
size are in requisition, and the number assembled at 
the government wharf is often very large. The cer- 
emony within the fort closing, the visitors betake 
themselves to their boats again, and spreading sails 
are seen moving to and fro, as pleasure or fancy may 
dictate. 

Another pleasant sail is in the direction of Rose 
Island. This requires more time, and affords a 
finer view of the open passage to the south and the 
river to the north. The island is low but picturesque 
in form, and seems to float upon the water. A group 
of trees upon the higher parts and a few shrubs 
planted upon the crumbling mounds, would give it a 
charming appearance from all points, and make it 
much more attractive. As it is now, fishing par- 



72 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 



ties have to rely on the old and ruined barracks for a 
shade. 

Another point of interest, that can only be visited 
in a boat, is 




FORT DUMPLINGS, 



or, more properly, Fort Brown, situated on the Island 
of Conanicut, just at the mouth of the outer harbor. 
The Fort itself is oval in form, and placed on a high 
wall of rocks, against which the ocean waves are 
ever breaking. The water in front is very bold, the 
surrounding rocks — the Dumplings — are rich in form 
and color, (many of them graced with stunted spruce 
trees,) the little beach is a gem, and the hills, as they 
sweep inland, one upon another, like ocean billows, 
delight the eye, and invite man to pause and survey 
their graceful slopes. The rocks are here hard and 
stern ; the grass has not the rich emerald tint seen 
on Rhode Lsland ; trees — in the foreground — there 
are none, and the few bushes hug their mother earth. 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 73 

as if afraid to raise their stunted heads ; but with all 
this, the scene is beautiful ; and the dreamy stillness 
that pervades all nature, is in perfect keeping with 
the ruined tower above and the lazy waters below. 

The fishing around the Dumplings is excellent ; 
and there is probably not a day during the season, 
except in storms, that boats are not seen winding 
among the rocks in search of prey. They are gene- 
rally successful, although the fish taken are small as 
compared with the same variety captured off" the reef. 

Gay parties often resort to the Dumplings to escape 
from the throng of the city for a while, and enjoy a 
day of sunshine and pleasure in the open air. Here 
they spread an ample tent, or gather in a circle on 
the soft and yielding turf, to partake of a rich and 
savory chowder, cooked on the rocks, and served in 
the true picnic style — a bowl of chowder and a heap- 
ing tray of crackers, flanked with lemons and sugar, 

and a flagon of water. 

7 



CHAPTER XIII. 

CHURCH OF THE HOLY CROSS. CAPTURE OF GEN. PRESCOTT. 

REDWOOD HOUSE BUTT's HILL. LAWTON's VALLEY. R. I. 

COAL MINES. 

BY taking the main road, and keeping to the west, 
an hour's ride will bring us to the spot where 
Ge«n. Prescott was captured by Col. Barton, on the 
night of June 10th, 1777. The road is not as much 
frequented as the east or mail route, but in many 
respects it is more pleasing. 

At the corner of the cross road, about three and a 
half miles out, stands a picturesque little church, built 
from a design by Mr. Upjohn, and called the Church 
of the Holy Cross. Beyond this, a distance of per- 
haps a mile and a half, we reach the farm known as 
the Page place, and the house that stands back a 
short distance from the road, was occupied by Gen. 
Prescott, as his head-quarters in Portsmouth, at the 
time that he was surprised by the Americans. 

The capture of Gen. Prescott by Col. Barton was 
a memorable event in the history of the Revolution, 
and as remarkable for its daring as for its complete 
success. It is unnecessary here to rehearse the 
story ; every one is acquainted with the particulars, 
and we have only to point to the diiferent objects to 
make the whole scene familiar. 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 75 

The stream that gently falls over the wall, then 
winds across the road and under the little bridge, is 
soon lost to view in the tangled brushwood on the 
west. It was by this ravine, (through which this 
stream finds its way to the sea,) that Barton and his 
party approached the house. The gate and the path 
remain unchanged, and one can readily imagine the 
band of patriots quietly drawing near to the Louse, 
with the full determination of capturing the leader of 
the enemy's forces, or of sacrificing their lives in the 
attempt. The work was soon done. The old negro 
(who we well remember) broke in the panel with his 
head ; the astonished General was taken from his 
bed, and without allowing him time to dress, he was 
carried forth by strong arms, and hurried over a field 
but lately reaped — the stubble sorely cutting his naked 
feet — to the boat in waiting at the mouth of the creek. 
There he was wrapped in Barton's cloak, and the 
boats pulled away for the opposite shore, passing 
directly under the stern of one British man-of-war, 
and under the bows of another ; the General hearing 
the sentinel above his head proclaiming " All's well," 
but, restrained by the fear of instant death, he could 
not make known his painful situation. 

The house was at that time in the possession of 
the Overing family, and by some it is still called the 
Overing house. Since that time it has passed through 
several hands. 

The name of Prescott was detested by friend and 
foe, and independent of the humiliation and disgrace 
attached to such a capture, the British troops were 



76 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 



overjoyed to find that he had b&en so suddenly 
snatched from his command. 
In Newport, the 




HEAD-QUARTERS OF GEN. PRESCOTT, 

was the house corner of Pelham and Spring Streets, 
directly opposite the Congregational Church, and 
now the property of Joshua Sayer, Esq. During the 
war it was owned by the Bannister family. The 
General, in pleasant weather, used to walk from the 
corner of the house in Spring Street to the north 
corner of the block, and, to have a dry flagging, he 
caused a sufficient number of stone steps to be re- 
moved from the neighboring dwellings, and placed 
there for his accommodation. Here he used to sun 
himself, and wo betide the man who had the temerity 
to pass him without taking off his hat. 

The house is of the old school, of which we have 
already made meniion. It is finished throughout with 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 77 

panel work, elaborate mouldings, rooms of ample di- 
mensions, a wide hall and generous staircase. 

The next estate to the Page place, with the fine 
row of linden trees in front, is the Redwood farm ; 
and at the time of the capture of Gen. Prcscott, it was 
occupied by Gen. Smith, who was second in com- 
mand. 

Beyond the Redwood farm, and to the right, there 
is an elevation, known as Butt's Hill. Here the 
Americans, under Sullivan and Greene, made a des- 
perate stand against the British, at the time they were 
driven from the Island. The odds were greatly in favor 
of the enemy, but nevertheless these brave officers 
managed to cover the retreating forces, and to embark 
with them without serious loss. 

The valley below Butt's Hill is an exceedingly 
picturesque one, and is known as Lawton's Valley. 
It is watered by a small stream that flows through its 
entire length, and falls into the Bay. Few who have 
leisure, pass this lovely spot without pausing to rest 
beneath the shade of the trees that hang gracefully 
over the little brook. 

Keeping the road for a distance of about ten miles 
from Newport, we come upon the Rhode Island Coal 
Mines. The mines have been worked for a number 
of years, and at the present time the yield is large, 
and the coal of a quality suitable for all uses where 
an intense heat is required, and a strong draft can be 
applied. The main shaft is now over six hundred 
feet in depth, dipping at an angle of 35 degrees, 
with five lateral galleries, branching off at lengths 
varying from three hundred to eleven hundred feet. 
7* 



78 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

One may descend, if disposed to explore the dark 
caverns ; but the sights there to be seen will scarcely 
repay one for the labor and fatigue of groping through 
the dark and damp passages, and over broken frag- 
ments of rock and coal. 



I 



CHAPTER XIV. 

STEAMBOATS RUNNING TO AND FROM NEWPORT. 

NEWPORT is brought into direct communication 
with New York by means of the Bay State line 
of steamers, comprising the Bay State, Empire State, 
State of Maine, and the new steamer MetropoHs. 
The last is the largest and every way the finest boat 
that has ever been on the Sound. These boats leave 
New York every afternoon, at five o'clock in the 
summer and at four in winter, arriving at Newport 
between two and three the next morning, where they 
stop at the Long Wharf to land their passengers and 
freight, and then proceed to Fall River with their 
Boston passengers, to connect with the Fall River 
Railroad. In the evening the cars leave Boston at 
five o'clock, and the boats touch at Newport between 
eight and nine, on their way to New York, where 
they arrive the next morning at a seasonable hour. 

The steamer Perry plies on the River, between 
Newport and Providence, making two trips each way 
daily during the summer, thus accommodating the 
travel between the two cities, and offering facilities 
for connecting with Boston and New York, by means 
of the Providence or Worcester Railroads. 

There are other boats connecting with Newport 
during the warm season, but their trips are not 
made with sufficient regularity to be noticed here 



CHAPTER XV. 



THE POINT. WASHINGTON STREET. DR. WM. HUNTER HON, 

WM. HUNTER. DE.\TH OF CHEVALIER DE TERNaY. FORT 

GRKENR. 




FINE view of the Bay 
and Harbor may be ob- 
tained from the Point, 
which comprises that 
part of the city to the 
north of the Long 
Wharf, and west of 
Thames Street. 

The change in the 
appearance of the Point 
within a few years, is 
very great ; not that 
any remarkable buildings have gone up there, but the 
whole of that portion of the city has sensibly im- 
proved. The prmcipal streets have been graded, the 
buildings generally neatly painted, and in a few m- 
stances new and pretty cottages have been built. 
We often wornder that no more buildings are erected 
in that quarter ; the situation is delightful, the pros- 
pect finer than in the compact part of the city ; it is 
easy of access, affords a fine opportunity for bathing, 
and offers many inducements to those who are seek- 
ing desirable building lots. 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 81 

The principal street running nonh and south, is 
Washington Street. About half way from the Long 
Wharf, and a few doors from Bridge Street, stands 
the Hunter house, another of the old fashioned build- 
ings, so characteristic of Newport. 

Here Dr. Wm. Hunter resided, and the property 
is still in the hands of his descendants. 

Dr. Hunter was a Scotch physician of high respect- 
ability He was educated at Edinburgh, but settled 
in Newport many years prior to the Revolution. It 
is said that he was one of the devoted band of Scotch- 
men who adhered to the last to the ill-fated house of 
Stuart, and that his emigration hither was the conse- 
quence of his participation in the rebellion of 1745. 
In the year 1755 he was surgeon of the troops raised 
by this State for the expedition against Crown Point, 
and it was in his tent that the brave Baron Dieskau 
breathed his last. In the year 1756 he delivered in 
this city, the first course of anatomical lectures ever 
given in the country. His youngest son, the late Hon. 
William Hunter, was born at Newport. 

Hon. William Hunter graduated at Brown Univer- 
sity, and sailed for London, where he commenced the 
study of medicine under the guidance of his kinsman, 
the celebrated Dr. Hunter. The profession, however, 
was distasteful to him, and he soon after entered the 
Inner Temple, a pupil of Arthur Murphy, Esq. Re- 
turning to Newport, and having been admitted to the 
bar at the age of twenty-one, he soon found himself, 
despite his youth, in the enjoyment of a large and 
lucrative practice. 

In 1834, Mr. Hunter was appointed Cbarge to 



82 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

Brazil, an office which, in 1842, was raised to that of 
a full mission. In 1844, Mr. Hunter retired from the 
post and from public life, and returned to this place, 
where he resided until his death. 

As a lawyer, Mr. Hunter was distinguished for the 
extent and variety of his learning, while his varied 
accomplishments gave him great power as an advo- 
cate. As a writer, he is mostly known by his occa- 
sional orations and discourses, which display rich 
and ripe scholarship. 

It was in the Hunter house that the Chevalier De 
Ternay breathed his last. 

At the northern extremity of Washington Street, 
Fort Greene is situated ; and from this point a beau- 
tiful prospect opens, and one may long enjoy the 
view of the Bay and the projecting points of land. 

Fort Greene rests in part on the Blue Rocks. It 
was built in 1776, and the breastwork was thrown up 
in one night, for the purpose of attacking the British 
ship Scarborough, lying off Rose Island. On the 
following day the guns were brought to bear so effect- 
ually upon her as to force her to beat an ignoble 
retreat. The fort was called the North Battery till 
1798, when, by order of Congress, the present fort 
was built and named after Gen. Greene. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

TAMMANY HILL. TAMMANY HILL INSTITUTE. MALBONE's GAR- 
DEN- SMILERT. ALLSTON. STUART. ART IN AMERICA 

THE rising ground to the north of the city is known 
as Tammany Hill — so called from the fact that 
Miantonomi, an Indian sachem, once ruled this por- 
tion of the island, and it has been said that he made 
this hill the seat of his government ; recent discoveries 
have, however, shown that the sachem who made 
this hill his home was Wannemetonomie, a son of 
Miantonomi. The hill is quite elevated, sloping 
gradually to the south and west, and on the north it 
is very abrupt. 

During the Revolution, Tammany Hill was sur- 
mounted by a breastwork, thrown up by the British, 
and was made one of a chain of outposts across the 
Island. The remains of the work are still visible. 
There is a lookout rising from the centre of the hill, 
and from its summit a fine view of the surroundmg 
country may be obtained. We have often paused 
upon this elevated point to enjoy the scene. To 
watch all the changes in the landscape, from the first 
dawn of light to the last dying rays of the setting sun, 
is the privilege of those only who reside on the hill- 
tops ; and the lessons that are taught to the young by 
the glories of the sunlight and the majesty of the 



84 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 



Storm, seen from a point like this, cannot be effaced 
even amid the stirring scenes of after life. I 

Tammany Hill is a portion of the farm bearing the 
same name, where for a number of years stood a lattice 
tower, from which a most beautiful view could be had 
in a clear day. But not only has this been removed, 
but the house near it has also been moved from the 
summit of the hill. 




TAMMANY HILL HOUSE. 

A little lower, on the south side of the hill, stands 
a picturesque stone house, built by J. Prescott Hall, 
E^q. It is located on or near the site of the famous 
Malbone House. All the land in that section was 
once tne property of the late Godfrey Malbone, Esq., 
and the estate had a wide reputation for the taste and 
elegance displayed by its wealthy proprietor. The 
house was accioentaily consumed in 1766. The 
flames broke out as a large party were about to sit 
down to dinner. Mr. Malbone, finding that it would 
be impossible to save the house, ordered the dinner 
to be taken to the lawn and served, observing, " If 1 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 85 

have lost my house, there is no reason why we should 
lose our dinner." I'o this day the grounds are spoken 
of as Malbone's Garden, though nothing now remains 
of the former splendor, save the artificial fish-ponds, 
and the rows of ancient fruit trees. 

When the property passed out of the Malbone fam- 
ily, Edward Malbone, a descendant of Godfrey Mal- 
bone, Esq., devoted himself to his art with unabated 
zeal, that by so doing he might in lime be enabled to 
repurchase the estate. By his intense application to 
his profession, he undermined his constitution, and 
planted the seeds of a disease that shortened his life. 

Newport may justly be proud of the distinguished 
artists who, at various periods of her history, have 
shown so decided an attachment to her soil. Smilert 
painted here, and probably the portrait of Bishop 
Berkeley, now at Yale College, was painted at White- 
hall. Samuel King, during his lifetime, practised por- 
trait painting in Newport, and it is a matter of regret 
that we have so little of his history preserved to us ; but 
we know that he was the first instructor of Malbone 
and Allston, and that the store in Thames Street, long 
occupied by Mr. Jno. N. Potter, No. 130, was the spot 
where they were daily employed under his direction. 
Stuart made Newport his home ; his attachment to it 
was very marked, and his daughter, Miss Jane Stuart, 
an artist of much skill, resides here at the present time. 
The painting in the Senate Chamber of the State 
House, is one of Stuart's finest works ; and as a con- 
trast to it, there are two pictures in the Redwood 
Library, portraits of the late Mr. and Mrs. Bannister, 
painted by him when a boy, and before he sailed for 
6 



86 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

Europe to study with West. Mr. Charles B. King, 
now of Washington, claims Newport as his home, 
and many ot his finest pictures have been deposited 
in the Redwood Library; and Mr. R. M. Staigg, 
whose miniatures are so highly prized, is a citizen of 
Newport by adoption. 

A few of Malbone's pictures are still to be found 
in Newport, but in most cases they have been pur- 
chased and taken away. The " Hours " — the picture 
that has made his name famous — is at present m 
Providence. 

Art in America has had to struggle to maintain 
even a respectable position. For it to rise to emi- 
nence in this land of cent, per cent., is wholly out of 
the question. The wonder is, how in the whirl of 
business, when all that bears not the stamp of trade 
is brushed aside, such men as Stuart, Malbone, 
Allston and King, could have reached the temple of 
Fame. But when those conversant with their history 
reflect upon the means resorted to by these distin- 
guished men to secure future greatness ; when we 
picture them toiling incessantly, at every sacrifice, to 
meet the wants of life, and to instill into the public a 
little of their enthusiastic love of Art, with no public 
collection at hand for reference, no prospect of public 
patronage, and no hope beyond that of leaving some 
work that might in time convey to the more discern- 
ing some evidence of their worth ; when we know 
that their lives were thus devoted to one object, the 
love of which could alone sustain them, we no longer 
wonder at their success, but learn to emulate their 
zeal, and almost to worship the efforts of genius se- 



NEWPORT I L L U S T R A 1' E D . 87 

cured to us at so great cost. The names of men like 
these can never die. They have been tried in the 
balance, and not found wanting. Shall we leave 
others to struggle against like reverses of fortune — 
reverses that try all but the more enduring — shall we 
leave them to pass through the same ordeal, to be pu- 
rified by the (ire of afflictions, the offspring of neglect 
and cold indifference ; or, shall we open for them a 
way by instructing the young to seek out the beautiful 
in art and nature, and thus lay the foundation of a 
wide national taste. 

In America we have no established schools of Art 
opened to the puptl. All that we urge is, that youth 
should be instructed in the rudiments of Art, as they 
progress with their other studies. By such a course 
they would soon learn to reverence the name of the 
great, obtaining at the same time a knowledge that 
would prove a source of infinite pleasure in after life ; 
and if they possess a single spark of the true fire, it 
will find a way to display itself, and to triumph, even 
if it be kindled in a land that has done &o little for 
real Art. 



CHAPTER XVII. 




FRANKLIN S PRINTING PRESS. 



THE NEWPORT MERCUKY JAMES FRANKLN. BRENTON TOWN 

HOUSE. JUDGE HALLIBURTON. 



THE first newspaper published in Newport was 
issued in 1732, by James Franklin, elder brother 
of Dr. Benjamin Franklin. It was a small sheet, the 
size of ordinary letter paper, and was printed on a 
press brought from Boston, which press, imported by 
James Franklin, was long standing in the office of the 
Newport Mercury. 

On the 14th of February, 1734-5, James Franklin 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 89 

died, aged 38, after a long indisposition. The print- 
insf office he left to his son James, then a child. On 
the 12th June, 1758, James, the son, issued the first 
number of the Newport Mercury. He was assisted 
in the management of it by his mother, Mrs. Ann 
Franklin, and in a fewyears, James, having left New- 
port, for some cause never made known, and never to 
return, her imprint alone appeared on the paper. The 
daughter of Mrs. Franklin having married one Samuel 
Hall, the Mercury was made over to him, and subse- 
quently it was transferred to Solomon Southwick, who 
published it until December, 1776, when it was dis- 
continued lor a time, Southwick fearing the British, 
who were preparing to land on the Is^land, would des- 
troy his property. To prevent his press and types, 
then standing in the office on Queen Street, near the 
middle of the parade, from falling into their hands, 
they were removed to the rear of the old building on 
Broad Street, known as the Kilburn House, where 
they were buried in the garden. The fact that the 
property was so secreted was made known to the 
commander of the British troops, who caused it to be 
removed to the building known as the Vaughan House, 
making the north corner of the Parade and Thames 
Street, where, in the chambers, one John Howe, who 
was known as printer to his Majesty, regularly issued 
the Rhode Island Gazette during 1777-78-79, copies 
of which paper can now be seen at the Redwood Li- 
brary. After the war, the office was purchased by 
Mr. Henry Barber, and the Mercury was again issued 
January 1, 1780. It contmued in the possession 
of the Barber family for over seventy years, having 
8* 



90 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 



been owned by father, son, and grandson in succes- 
sion. It is now the property of Messrs. Coggeshall 
& Pratt. 

The house directly opposite, standing back from the 
street, and shaded by large and beautiful trees, is 
known as the 




CHANiMNG HOUSE, 



but it has an interest apart from the fact that it was 
once owned by members of the Channing family. It 
was built by Jahleel Brenton, Esq., in 1720, and was 
occupied by his family as a town house. It was in 
this building that Judge Halliburton of Nova Scotia, 
was born ; and here, in later times, Washington pass- 
ed a night. It was then kept as a boarding-house by 
a Mrs. Almy. Subsequently it passed through many 
hands, and is now a private residence. 



CHAPTER XVIIT. 







WHITEHALL. 

A RIDE TO GREEN END, HONYMAN's HILL, WHITEHALL, AND 
OVER THE BEACHES. 



FEW spots in the environs of Newport are more 
endeared to the antiquarian than the quiet vale 
where Berkeley lived, and wrote his finest works. The 
changes that have been effected in that portion of the 
island for the century past, are slight indeed, and one 
can there still enjoy the quiet and repose, so congenial 
to the mind of Berkeley, climb the hill, named for his 
friend and neighbor, to survey the scene that always 



92 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

filled his mind with delight; or, enjoy the shade of 
the overhanging rocks, where, in fine weather, he daily- 
wrote, undisturbed, save by the murmur of the distant 
ocean, the song of birds, and the low hum of bees. 

The day is fine, the roads are in excellent order, 
and we will turn our horses' heads towards Green End 
and chat of Berkeley's sojourn on Rhode Island, as 
we gently mount the hill. 

Whitehall can be reached by passing over the Beach 
and the neck of land that divides it from the second 
beach, and then up through the valley that opens to 
the left: or, by the main and Green End roads, re- 
turning by the beaches. We prefer the latter, and 
will now take the road leading from Broad Street, and 
follow it for half a mile or so, where it branches off to 
the right, and to the right we must keep. On either 
slope are beautiful meadows of emerald green : the 
orchards already display thick clusters of ripening 
fruit : the maze, in its perfection, is gently swayed by 
the soft breezes from the sea, and the birds, that fill 
the air with their song, fly not at the approach of m.an. 

At the top of the first hill we look down upon Eas- 
ton's Pond, a large sheet spread out before us, its 
waters unbroken, save by the light skiff of the angler, 
or the duck leading forth her young brood upon its 
glassy surface. Its eastern shore is bounded by Eas- 
ton's beach, and in the breakers beyond we can descry 
the bathers, dark against the white waves sporting on 
the shore. 

To the east, the eye rests upon the valley below, 
and the rising ground that shuts out the view on the 
opposite side. The hill is known as Hony man's Hill, 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 93 

and on its summit the American forces were once 
gathered, under Lafayette, to repulse the British troojDs, 
then in possession of the spot on which we now stand. 
The remains of the breast work, thrown up by the 
British, are still visible on the farm to the cast, and 
when a portion of it was levelled a few years since, 
cannon balls were brought to light, that were thrown 
from the American work before the general retreat 
under Sullivan. 

As we descend the hill we lose the view of all save 
the sloping banks of green, the gnarled and twisted 
trees that have yielded their fruits to father and son 
for generations, and the quiet little brook, that takes 
its rise in the woods some miles to the north, and 
empties its limpid waters in the pond to the right. 
The view is contracted, for the road curves at every 
few rods, and each change is more pleasing than the 
last. 

The ascent of Honyman's Hill is somewhat steep. 
On the left hand, just by the school house, there is a 
narrow road, running north, and shaded by overhang- 
ing trees, that, for a short drive, is very pleasant. It 
comes out on the main road, about three miles from 
town. We continue the ascent, and as we approach 
the summit of the hill, find ourselves well repaid for 
the exertion. 

To the south a wider view is offered. The Pond, 
Easton's Beach, the more elevated portions of the 
town, and the cliffs, pushing far out into the sea, are 
spread out before us like a map. Each object can 
be distinctly seen, and even the sails and masts of 



94 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

the light craft, far out on the horizon, are clearly 
marked. 

Berkeley, when asked why he did not select this 
spot for the site of his house, replied, " To enjoy the 
prospect of the hill, he must visit it only occasionally ; 
that, if his constant residence should be on the hill, 
the view would be so common as to lose all its 
charms." 

George Berkeley, son of William Berkeley, was 
born at Kilcrin, near Thomaston, county of Kilkenny, 
March 12, 1684. At the county schools he received 
the rudiments of education, and at fifteen years of 
age he entered as a pensioner in the University of 
Dublin, where, at the expiration of eight years, he 
obtained a fellowship. At this time he published 
some of his writings, principally upon mathematical 
science. In 1709 he gave to the world his " Theory 
of Vision," and the following year he published the 
"Principles of Human Knowledge." In 1712 he 
was induced to enter upon the discussion of political 
theories, and to Locke's celebrated treatise the world 
is indebted for the sudden turn given to his writings. 
Berkeley's support of the banished Stuarts made him 
unpopular at the time, insomuch that Lord Galway 
represented him as a Jacobite, which unfavorable 
impression was only removed through the agency of 
his college pupil, Mr. Molyneaux. 

The writings of Berkeley early attracted consider- 
able attention, and they soon became the subject of 
discussion and contioversy. With Dr. John Clarke 
he had a controversy of a serious' and protracted na- 
ture, and many years after, through the influence of 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 95 

Addison, the parties were brought together ; but they 
separated without a settlement of their dispute. 

In 1713, Berkeley went over to London to super- 
intend the publishing of his three Dialogues between 
Hylas and Philonous, which brought him to the notice 
of the most celebrated literary men of his day. He 
became intimate with Steele and Pope, and at the 
request of the former, wrote several papers for the 
Guardian ; for each of which it is said he received a 
guinea and a dinner. He was inj^duced by Steele 
to the Earl of Peterborough, who took him as chap- 
lain and secretary, when he received the appointment 
of Ambassador to the King of Sicily. 

In 1724, Berkely was preferred to the deanery of 
Derry, with a living of £1,100. But new thoughts 
had found birth, and these filled his mind with visions of 
future usefulness. His heart was filled with the lofty 
and holy design of converting the savages of America 
to Christianity, by means of a College to be erected 
on the Island of Bermuda. The design once con- 
ceived, he arranged and drew up plans with full ex- 
planations, and solicited the influence of his friends 
to secure for these a favorable hearing. His feelings 
at the time found utterance in the verses so often 
quoted : 

" Westward the course of Empire takes its way." 

The project which Berkeley had so much at heart, 
is admirably set forth in a letter from Swift to Lord 
Carteret. In this he says : 

"Your Excellency will be frighted when I tell you all this 
is but an introduction, for I am now to mention his errand. 



96 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

He is an absolute philosopher with regard to money, titles and 
power ; and for three years past, has been struck with a notion 
of founding a university at Bermudas, by a charter from the 
crown. . . He showed me a little tract which he designs to 
publish, and there your Excellency will see the whole scheme 
of a life academico-philosophical, — I shall make you remember 
what you were, — of a college founded for Indian scholars and 
missionaries, where he most exorbitantly proposes a whole 
£100 for himself, £40 for a fellow, and £10 for a student. 
His heart will break if his deanery be not taken from him, and 
left at your Excellency's disposal." 

The efforts to change the views of Berkeley were 
unavaiUng ; and^P carry, out his plans, he sent in his 
proposals to King George I. The result is well 
known. On the 11th of May, 1726, it was voted in 
the House of Commons, " That an humble address be 
presented to His Majesty, that out of the lands in St. 
Christophers, yielded by France to Great Britain by 
tke treaty of Utrecht, His Majesty would be graciousy 
pleased to make such grant for the support of the 
president and fellows of the College of St. Paul's in 
Bermuda, as His Majesty should think proper." To 
this the King answered favorably, and Berkeley felt 
sure that the jC20,000 asked for would be forthcoming. 
But the statesmen of the day thought differently, and 
before the great seal was affixed, the King died. 
Berkeley did not pause for this, but arranged his 
affairs with the full expectation of ultimately receiv- 
ing the grant ; and in 1728, having married but a 
month previous, he sailed for this port. Here he 
corresponded with his friends in England and Ireland 
on the subject of his grant. It then often required 
six months, and sometimes a year, to transmit a letter. 
He met with no encouragement, and after learning 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 97 

that the land in St. Christophers had been sold and 
the proceeds distributed without regard to his claim, 
and having received the foHowing reply from Walpole 
to Bishop Gibson's question in his behalf, he settled 
his affairs and returned to Dublin : " If you put the 
question to me as a minister, I trust and assure you 
that the money shall most undoubtedly be paid as 
soon as suits with public convenience ; but if you ask 
me as a friend, whether Dean Berkeley should con- 
tinue in America, expecting the payment of jC20,000, 
I advise him, by all means, to return home to Europe, 
and to give up his present expectations." 

The following tradition of the landing of Dean 
Berkeley in Newport, we extract from " Memoirs of 
Rhode Island," by the late Major Bull: 

" The ship ran into the west passage, and came to anchor. 
The Dean wrote a letter to Mr. Honyman, [rector of Trinity 
Ciiurch,] which the pilots took on shore at Conanicut Island, 
and called on a Mr. Gardner and Mr. Martin, two members of 
Mr. Honyman's church, informing them that a great dignitary 
of the Church of England, called Dean, was on board the ship, 
together with other gentlemen passengers. They handed them 
the letter from the Dean, which Gardner and Martin brought 
to Newport in a small boat, with all possible dispatch. On 
their arrrval they found Mr. Honyman at church, it being a 
holyday on which divine service was held there. They then 
sent the letter by a servant, who delivered it to Mr Honyman 
in the pulpit. He opened it and read it to the congregation, 
from the contents of which it appeared the Dean might be 
expected to land in Newport every moment. The church was 
dismissed with a blessing, and Mr. Honyman, with the war- 
dens, vestry, church and congregation, male and female, re- 
paired immediately to the Ferry wharf, where, they arrived a 
little before the Dean, his family and friends." 

Berkeley was charmed with Rhode Island, and in 
writing to his friends he describes it as " pleasantly 
laid out in hills and vales and rising grounds, and hath 
9 



98 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

plenty of excellent springs, and fine rivulets, and many 
delightful landscapes of rocks, and promontories, and 
adjacent lands." He soon became settled, and built 
Whitehall, in the valley below us, and to approach it 
we leave the main road to the left, enter a gate, and 
follow the path a few rods to the house — now fast 
going to decay from neglect, and the wear of more 
than a hundred New England winters. 

The worthy dean found in Newport a society re- 
fined and elevated, whose pursuits were congenial to 
his tastes. With others, he soon formed a philoso- 
phical association, comprising the names of men dis- 
tinguished in their day for their learning and liberality, 
and who ultimately laid the foundation of the Red- 
wood Library. 

Whitehall was given by Berkeley to Yale College, 
which still retains the fee, and he also presented that 
institution with a considerable portion of his library. 
Of his favorite resort, Major Bull thus speaks : 

" During his residence at Whitehall he wrote his * Minute 
Philosopher,' and his celebrated poem, so oracular as to the future 
destinies of America. These were principally written at a 
place about half a mile to the south of his house. There he 
had his chair and writing apparatus placed in a natural alcove 
which he found in the most elevated part of the Hanging 
Eocks, (so called) roofed and only open to the south, command- 
ing at once a view of Sachuest Beach, the ocean and the 
circumjacent islands. This hermitage was to him a favorite 
and solitary retreat. He continued here about two years, per- 
haps a little longer. He was certainly here as late as Septem- 
ber, 1731, as appears by a supplementary inscription on the 
tombstone of'Nathaniel Kay, Esq., which is as follows, viz : 
Joining to the south of this tomb, lies Lucia Berkeley, daughter 
of Dean Berkeley, obit, the 5th of September, 1731." 

And it is recorded of him by another : 

" Hia preaching was eloquent and forcible, and he always 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 99 

had a large congregation He was tolerant in religious opin- 
ions, and members of all denominations flocked to hear him." 

After Berkeley's return to England, he presented 
Trinity Church with the organ, still seen in that edi- 
fice. A recent examination of the records of the town 
of Berkeley, Mass., has brought to light the fact that 
the name of Berkeley was given to the parish as a 
compliment to the dean, and that after his return to 
Dublin he caused a magnificent organ to be built, 
which he shipped to his agent at Newport, to be for- 
warded to Berkeley. The selectmen of the latter 
place, when they received the letter from the dean, 
called a town meeting, and it was voted that " an or- 
gan is an instrument of the devil for the entrapping of 
men's souls,^' and would havfe nothing to do with it. 
The vote was soon made known to Berkeley, who 
subsequently presented the organ to Trinity Church. 
The original case, of English oak, is still in use in 
the church, and it contains a part of the old works, 
with the addition of such new pipes as were found 
necessary when it was rebuilt a few years ago. 

In 1753 Bishop Berkeley died at Oxford. He ex- 
pired in his chair, of palsy of the heart, while his 
wife was reading to him a sermon by Sherlock. So 
easy was his death that some time elapsed before it 
was known to those around him. 

Leaving the quiet retreat, where an hour may be 
spent most delightfully, we follow the road quite to 
the foot of the hill, cross a slight bridge over a little 
brook that ever flows on towards the sea — overshad- 
owed by drooping willows, and bordered by tall flags 
and tangled wild flowers, — and follow its course nearly 



100 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

to the shore. Here it is gurgling at our feet, and there 
it steals off through the meadows, only to return and 
cross the road again before we finally turn our back 
upon it. 

Beyond the last narrow bridge the road opens upon 
the sands of Sachuest Beach. To the left are the 
hanging rocks, showing their dark sides and surmount- 
ed with stunted spruce and fir trees ; on the extreme 
left, Sachuest Point is whitened by the breakers, and 
on the right, and almost in front, are the massive 
rocks of Purgatory. Following the road to the right, 
and passing the old boat house by the gate, we soon 
reach the summit of the hill, from which another view 
of Easton's Beach may be obtained, with the spires of 
the city in the distance, cutting sharp against the sun- 
set sky. 



CHAPTER XIX. 



LIBERTY TREE. HEXRY MARCHANT, ESQ. HON. WM. ELLERY. 




LIBERTY TREE. 



AT the head of Thames Street stood the venerable 
Liberty Tree, spreading abroad its bleached and 
naked limbs, that groan and crackle beneath the blasts 
of winter, and afford no sheltering shade during the 
heat of summer. 
9* 



102 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

In 1766, Wm. Read, Esq., deeded to Wm. Ellery, 
John Collins, Robert Cooke and Samuel Fowler, the 
Liberty Tree lot. The instrument, drawn up by 
Henry Marchani, Esq., is to this effect : 

Said lot and tree thereon, were conveyed to the grantees " in 
trust, and for ever thereafter to be known by the name of the 
' Tree of Liberty,' to be set apart to, and for the use of, the 
Sons of Liberty ; and that the same stand as a monument of 
the spirited and noble opposition to the Stamp Act, in the 
year 1765, by the Sons of Liberty in Newport, and throughout 
the continent of North America, and to be considered as em- 
blematical of Public Liberty taking deep root in English 
America, of her strength and spreading protection, of her 
benign influences, refreshing her sons in all their just sti-uggles 
against the attempts of tyranny and oppression. And further- 
more, the said Tree of Liberty is destined and set apart, for 
exposingto public ignominy and reproach, all offenders against 
the liberties of the country, and the abettors and approvers of 
such as would enslave her. And, in general, said tree is 
hereby set apart, for such other purposes as they, the true-born 
Sons of Liberty, shall, from time to time, from age to age, and 
in all times and ages hereafter, apprehend, judge and resolve, 
may subserve the glorious cause of Public Liberty." 

The British destroyed the tree thus dedicated ; but 
after the evacuation, the present tree was planted by 
a party of thirteen, in 1783, whose names are en- 
graved on the plate of copper, now nearly covered by 
the bark of the tree. 

" They are gone — all gone," it seemed to say ; 
"They are all in their graves, and why should I stay?' 
The stout old hands that planted me here 
Have been mouldering now for many a year ; 
Their children and children's children I 've seen 
Laid down in the shade of my branches green ; 
That stalwart race is gone from the land. 
And why should I any longer stand 1 
My royal equals, too, of the wood, 
Who in other days around me stood, — 
The motherly elm and the fatherly oak, — 
Have bowed to decay or the woodman's stroke ; 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 103 

The poplar, the beech, and the dark green ash, 

Have startled the fields with their farewell crash ; 

They have left me here in my solitude, 

O'er the memories of the past to brood, 

And over my present misery, 

A poor, old, naked and useless tree. 

* * * * * * 

" 0, men that have hearts of flesh, (I pray,) 

That the woes of a poor old tree can feel. 

Come to my help with the merciful steel ! 

Come with your axes, and lay me low ! 

They are gone, and 't is time I too should go. 

Build in the chimney my funeral pyre, 

And let me mount on wings of fire, 

To crown with deathless green the shore 

Where the fathers are gathered for evermore."* 

Henry Marchant, Esq., already alluded to in this 
chapter, was a native of Martha's Vineyard. He 
was brought to Newport when he was but four years 
of age, and here he passed the remainder of his life 
in the practice of the law. In the office of Judge 
Trowbridge, of Cambridge, he acquired a thorough 
knowledge of his profession ; and when he com- 
menced practising, he was the only dissenting or 
liberal lawyer in the colony. He met with a strong 
opposition from the majority party, but his legal abili- 
ties had only to be known to command for him an 
overwhelming majority ; and he found no difficuUy in 
maintaining his seat in the Legislature for a number 
of years, through all the vicissitudes of party. During 
the Revolution, he was an active leader of the Whiff 
party, and one of the most obnoxious individuals to 
the ministerialists. Elected a delegate to the Conti- 
nental Congress, he was one of the signers of the 
Confederation, and while signing, he said, the guns 

* " Songs of Field and Flood," by Rev. C. T. Brooks. 



104 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

of the Battle of the Brandywine were roaring in his 
ears. And his biographer adds : " Upon the organi- 
zation of the government under the Constitution, he 
was nominated by Gen. Washington, then President 
of the United States, Judge of the District Court of 
Rhode Island, and his nomination was unanimously 
confirmed. The duties of that office were discharged 
with distinguished ability and reputation until his 
death." 

The remains of Mr. Marchant were interred in 
the North Burying Ground, near the Perry Monu- 
ment. 

The large white house on Thames Street, and 
near to the Liberty Tree, was the residence of the 
late Hon. William EUery, and is still occupied bv his 
descendants. ^ 

Hon. Wm. Ellery was born at Newport, Dec. 22d, 
1727. He graduated at Harvard, and entered life as 
a merchant In this pursuit he was successful, and 
at one time he was Naval Officer for the port. In 
1770 Mr. Ellery began the practice of the law, and 
he was soon in the enjoyment of a lucrative business. 
In 1776, with Stephen Hopkins, he was elected a 
delegate to the memorable Congress, and was one of 
the signers of the Declaration of Independence. Du- 
ring his public life he was constantly employed on 
some of the most responsible duties, and at a time 
when his services were most needed, he was a con- 
spicuous member of the Marine Committee. He left 
Congress in 1785, and in 1790 he was appointed 
Collector of the Customs at Newport. 

Mr. Ellery contributed largely to the journals of 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 105 

his day, in behalf of order, public faith and efficient 
government. He studied the Bible dihgently and 
reverently, and acquainted himself with the opinions 
and reasons of hostile theologians. HumiUty was 
the virtue he prized the most, and he was a sincere 
advocate of religious freedom. 

Mr. EUery was a self-made man, and his success 
was the result of self-inspection and self-resistance. 



CHAPTER XX. 

FIRST BAPTIST CHURCH. SECOND BAPTIST. CENTRAL BAPTIST. 

METHODIST. UNITARIAN. EPISCOPAL MISSION. FRIENDS. 

ROMAN CATHOLIC. CONGREGATIONAL. UNION COLORED. 

¥E should here make mention of the chm-ches of 
Newport that have not already appeared in 
these pages. 

The First Baptist Church stands on Spring Street, 
to the rear of the State House. The society was 
formed very early in the history of the country — 
either in May, 1639, or March, 1638. It has been a 
matter of dispute between this society and the First 
Baptist Church in Providence, which is entitled to 
priority. 

Dr. John Clark was the first pastor, and the first 
place of worship for the society was erected on Green 
End. The society was at different times under the 
pastoral charge of Rev. Obediah Holmes, a graduate 
of Oxford ; Rev. John Comer ; Rev. John Callender, 
whose historical sermon, preached March, 1738, will 
ever be prized by Rhode Islanders ; Rev. Michael 
Eddy, who discharged the duties of his office a pe- 
riod of nearly fifty years, and many others, distinguish- 
ed alike for their labors of love and devotion to the 
cause of Christ. 

The society at the present time is under the charge 
of Rev. S. Adlam. 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 107 

The Second Baptist Church was established in 
1656 — the first pastor was Rev. Wm. Vaughan, who 
presided over the society till 1677. Among his suc- 
cessors the more distinguished were Rev. Gardner 
Thurston ; Rev. Mr. Elton and Rev. Mr. Gammell — 
the latter, respected and beloved in no ordinary de- 
gree, was sudden struck down by death in 1827, in 
the midst of great usefulness. His memory is cher- 
ished by members of all denominations who were so 
fortunate as to possess his friendship. 

The present pastor is the Rev. C. H. Malcom. 

The Second Baptist Church stands at the corner of 
Meeting and Farewell Streets, and is a gothic struc- 
ture, built of wood. 

The Central Baptist Society worship at their church 
in Clarke Street. They were established in 1847, 
purchased the edifice formerly occupied by the Second 
Congregational Church, and mvited Rev. Henry Jack- 
son to be their pastor. Since his death, Rev. Mr. 
Robbins has been minister to the church. 

The building has been lengthened, raised, modern- 
ized within and without, and is now a pleasing and 
most comfortable church. Before the change the ap- 
pearance of the interior was very cold and repulsive. 

This edifice was set on fire by lightning in 1764, 
and in Dr. Stiles' Diary, for August 20, 1 666, we find 
the following entry 

"Dr. Franklin's Electrical Points were erected a top the spire 
of my steeple. From the iron spindle there descended two 
lines of iron rod or wire, adown the N. E. and S E. corners of 
the steeple to the ground. The points were of large brass wire, 
extending about a foot above the vane. They are the first and 
only electrical rods erected in the colony of Rhode Island, upon 



108 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

any Meeting House, or any public buildings, and I think there 
is but one private house in the Colony guarded with them. In 
Boston, Cambridge, and a few other places in New England, 
points have lately been erected upon a few Meeting Houses, 
and the Colleges." 

The Methodist Church is located on Marlborough 
Street. It was erected in 1806. 

The first clergyman of this denomination was set- 
tled in Newport in 1805. A society was shortly built 
up, the present structure erected, and the church has 
continued to prosper and increase. It is now under 
the charge of the Rev. Mr. Davis. 

The Unitarian Society worship at their church on 
Mill Street. The society was organized in 1835, 
and shortly after they purchased the church formerly 
occupied by the First Congregational Church, under 
the late Dr. Hopkins. The building was completely 
modernized, and in turn we have the present pleasing 
structure, which was dedicated in 1836, and the 
following year the Rev. Chas. T. Brooks was ordained 
as the pastor. Mr. Brooks has continued to preside 
over the society ; not a year since he took passage 
for India, looking to a change of scene and clime to 
restore his wasted energies. 

In the lot to the west of the church, Aug. 5, 1770, 
Rev. Geo. Whitefield preached in the open air to the 
crowds who gathered to hear him. The table on 
which he stood is still in use in the vestry of the 
Congregational Church. 

A few years since, an Episcopal Mission was es- 
tablished in the south part of the city ; a number of 
families soon collected together, the room in which 
they met was found too small to accommodate 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 109 

them, and a building (formerly erected for a place of 
worship, but then unoccupied) was hired, and the 
society — now known as Emanuel Church — was es- 
tablished. The church has continued to prosper, and 
it has been sustained principally through contributions 
from Trinity Church. Probably a handsome church 
will shortly be built for the society, through the libe- 
rality of a few friends of the cause, who have already 
subscribed for that purpose a handsome sum. 

The society is under the charge of Rev. Doct. 
Balch. 

The Society of Friends was early established on 
this Island. The first record of their monthly meet- 
ings dates from 1676. The annual meeting of the 
society for the New England States, is held in this 
city during the month of June. There are two meet- 
ing-houses belonging to the two divisions ; the one on 
Mann Avenue, and the other on Tanner Street. The 
latter was erected about 1700. 

In the early history of the colony, the most influen- 
tial men in the public council were of the Society of 
Friends. Many members left the Island on the break- 
ing out of the Revolution, never to return, but the 
number residing within the county is still large. 

There are two Roman Catholic Churches in New- 
port, both belonging to one society. The one, on 
Mount Vernon Street, was built in 1836. It was 
slightly constructed, and already exhibits the marks 
of decay. The other, dedicated within the past year, 
stands on Spring Street, and is a great ornament to 
the city. It is of freestone, gothic in style, and when 
10 



110 NEWPORT II, LUST RAT ED. 

the spire is completed, the effect from the harbor will 
be very imposing. 

This church is under the charge of Rev. William 
O'Reilly. 

The Congregational Church stands at the corner 
of Spring and Pelham Streets, on an elevated site, 
and shaded by a fine old English walnut, that is still 
strong and vigorous, though it has withstood the 
storms of more than a hundred winters. 

Prior to 1833, there were two Congregational so- 
cieties in Newport — the one in Clarke Street, now 
the Central Baptist ; the other in Mill Street, now 
the Unitarian — but as neither society was in a pros- 
perous condition, it was deemed expedient to join the 
two bodies in one. A new edifice was erected in 
1834, and the society has rapidly increased in size, 
and is now one of the largest and most influential in 
the city, and has so much increased that a new edi- 
fice (larger and in every way an improvement on the 
former structure) has been recently erected. The 
society is at present under the charge of Rev. Thatcher 
Thayer. 

The colored population of Newport have a church 
of their own, in Division Street, known as the Union 
Church. The society was established in 1824, and 
in 1835 they purchased the present building, which 
they raised and greatly improved. 




i 






CHAPTER XXI. 

NAVAL ACADEMY. — RAILROAD FROM BOSTON. — NEW YORK 
AND NEWPORT STEAMBOATS. — COUNTRY RESIDENCES. 

T)UT there are other objects of interest to the 
•^ visitor at Newport. A few years have made 
many changes, and many more are in rapid progress. 
One special object of attraction is the Naval Acad- 
emy, whose removal from Annapolis and location at 
this place, on the breaking out of the rebellion, are 
well known. As we enter the harbor, two fine large 
ships, near the northern part of Goat Island, are 
specially conspicuous. The southernmost one, lying 
near the wharf, to which it is joined by a bridge, is 
the Constitution, the Old Ironsides of our past his- 
tory. Moored head and stern, and, as it were, built 
to the island, she seems to cling to it, as if still 
mindful of the rebel attack at Anna]3olis. But she 
looks more hale and hearty under her present excel- 
lent commander, than when Holmes, deprecating her 
destruction, wTote : 

*' O better that her shattered hulk 
Should sink beneath the wave ; 
Her thunders shook the mighty deep, 
And there should be her grave ; 

'* Xail to the mast her holy flag, 
Set every threadbare sail, 
And give her to the (iod of storms, 
The lightning and the gale." 



112 NEWPOKT ILLUSTRATED. 

And, instead of the ruin he feared, she has become the 
nursery of our navy, and we may hope will thus do 
better service in her last days, than when on her 

decks 

<' Rang the battle-shout, 
And burst the cannon's roar." 

Already some who came with her to Newport have 
done glorious service for their country, and have 
proved their devotion with their lives. 

The large man-of-war north of the Constitution, 
and also connected by trestle-work with the shore, 
is the Santee. These are the school-ships of the 
Naval Academy. There are also connected with 
them the John Adams, the Marion, the gunboat Cam- 
bridge, and the yacht America, which remain here 
during the M'inter, but during the summer months 
are used as practice-ships for the scholars. The 
little steamer Fanny is the means of communication 
with the several vessels and the shore, and by her, 
visits can be made hourly. 

The winter is very much enlivened by the presence 
of the Institution, with its scores of professors and 
officers, and its hundreds of pupils. And on Satur- 
day afternoon — the half-holiday — the streets are gay, 
and the stores are busy, with throngs of buoyant, 
joyous lads. During the summer a long vacation is 
granted, so that the scholars, and many of the offi- 
cers of the Institution, are absent through the season. 
The Atlantic House is also used by the school. 
Coaster's Harbor Island has been offered by the city 
to the Government, as a suitable location for the 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 113 

Academy, and there seems to be some probability 
that it may be taken for that purpose. This island 
is delightfully situated, a little distance from the 
northwest part of the city, with which it is connected 
by a bridge of stone and earthwork, built by the 
labor of the inmates of the Asylum ; the island, with 
its buildings, being used as a refuge for the poor of 
the city. Notwithstanding the difficulties under 
which the Academy labored, in being suddenly driven 
from Annapolis, apd compelled to take up with what 
could at that time be provided in Newport, it has 
been largely increased, and is now probably more 
flourishing and useful than at any previous time. No 
visit to Newport should be considered ended, until 
one has seen the ships, to which the Fanny runs 
hourly from the steamboat wharf. 

The Railroad, which has so long connected Boston 
and Fall River, will, by the removal of its terminus to 
Newport, work wondrous changes in our place. The 
Long Wharf, widened and enlarged by three acres 
of additional wharfage room, furnishes ample space 
for the Freight, and New York Passenger, depot. 
The Ne\^^ort Passenger depot, just down the wharf a 
short distance from Thames Street, is easily access- 
ible. What is now the eastern part of the Cove, is 
to be a reservoir of fresh water, for the supply of the 
boilers of the steamboats and locomotives. The 
wharf north of the Long Wharf will be the terminus 
of the freight track ; and soon the cars will be put 
on the road, and om- isolation will almost cease. 



114 NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 

Already the price of land has advanced very materi- 
ally in the neighborhood of the road. 

Within a short time the ownership of the New 
York Boats has been transferred to the New York 
and Newport Steamboat Company ; and the Railroad 
is now known by the name of the Old Colony and 
Newport Railroad. It is quite probable that the 
anticipations of those who look forward to a large 
increase of resident visitors will be fully realized, and 
that, in consequence of our increased facilities of 
communication, many will make Newport their abode, 
who are now deterred by the difficulties of travel. 

A rapid rise in the value of land, instead of lessen- 
ing, has largely increased the transfers of real estate, 
and very many new buildings might be mentioned 
worthy the attention of visitors to our place. Not 
only have the sites along the Avenue been quite 
thickly occupied, — and daily are they becoming more 
so, — but the shores of the Point, from which an 
unsurpassed view is to be had of the entrance to the 
bay, have found appreciative owners, and quiet, unob- 
trusive cottages, and mansions buried in shrubbery, 
testify to the good taste of those who are changing 
hotel visits to the seaside for pleasant summer homes. 

The high land on the north of the Harbor, and the 
Cliffs, from the Fort to Bateman's, on the southwest 
side of the Island, are being dotted with villas in 
every style of architecture, according to the taste and 
means of architects and owners ; and the vision of 
those who foretell that Aquidneck, the Isle of Peace, 



NEWPORT ILLUSTRATED. 115 

will yet become the Isle of AVight of America, may 
not be all a dream ; nor the time be distant when 
crowds shall leave the heated cities for our place, 
saying, as does Bryant, — 

" Away ! I Avill not toil to-day, 
The only slave of toil and care ; 
Away, from desk and dust ! away ! 
I'll be as idle as the air. 

•' Beneath the open sky abroad, 

Among the plants and breathing things, 
The sinless, peaceful works of God, 
I'll share the calm the season brings." 



I 



HHARLES E. HAMMETT, Jr. 

124 THAMES STREET, - - NEWPORT, R. I. 
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JUN 73 

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